VIFW President Lê Thị Quỳnh Trang (second from left) congratulates Filipino fashion designer and architect Francis Libirian (in black) on his collection “VISIONS”, presented at the Aquafina International Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 in Hà Nội. — Photo courtesy of Multimedia JSC

By Phương Mai

HÀ NỘI — Designers from Southeast Asian countries dazzled Hà Nội fashion lovers with collections highlighting their ethnic cultural heritage during the Aquafina Việt Nam International Fashion Week (AVIFW) Fall/Winter 2025.

VIFW President Lê Thị Quỳnh Trang said, “We are honoured to welcome designers from Southeast Asian countries, who made the fashion week imbued with cultural identity, creativity and integration.”

To celebrate the 20th season, the AVIFW Fall/Winter 2025, with the theme of “Pure Style Shine”, attracted 20 international and domestic fashion designers and brands, most from ASEAN countries.

Cao Minh Tiến, of the host country, combines traditional patchwork with hand embroidery art to create his collection “Kẻ Mộng Du” (Sleepwalker).

The collection features silk áo dài (Vietnamese traditional dress) in black, which are decorated with colourful brocade fabric woven by ethnic minority groups in northern mountainous areas. They are also embroidered with folk patterns such as flowers, birds and dragons.

Tiến also combines denim and brocade fabrics with embroidered details to create unique blouses, crop jackets, skirts, and mermaid gowns in vivid colours.

The designer said “Kẻ Mộng Du” expressed his new fashion personality, reflecting a younger and more modern spirit, but keeping the Vietnamese folk identity and craftsmanship.

Tiến, who has 20 years in the fashion industry, is known for his obsession with Vietnamese traditional fabrics. His designs showcase the beauty of handloom fabrics from ethnic minority groups in northern mountainous areas, as well as Vietnamese silk and traditional hand embroidery art.

Miss Universe Vietnam 2023 Bùi Quỳnh Hoa showcases a showstopper of Vietnamese fashion designer Cao Minh Tiến’s collection named “Kẻ Mộng Du” (Sleepwalker).

Coming from the Philippines, celebrated fashion designer and architect Francis Libiran honours Filipino craftsmanship in his collection “VISIONS".

The collection features co-ords for men and women as well as evening gowns, which are created in a 3D structural form and hand-woven metallic shimmer fabrics.

According to Libiran, every creation pulses with rhythm, energy, and soul, merging contemporary expression with the meticulous artistry of Filipino craftsmanship. This new era redefines structure and fluidity, channeling Southeast Asia’s vibrance through bold, architectural forms that move with life.

“VISIONS” ignites a revolution in couture, where motion becomes art and Pop Culture Couture takes centre stage. The collection is a statement of innovation and identity, serving as a living performance that proudly brings the Philippines to the world stage through a powerful celebration of culture, modernity, and poetry of motion."

Libiran studied architecture at the University of Santo Tomas before pursuing a course in fashion design at the Fashion Institute of the Philippines. Some of his signature design techniques include Art Deco patterns and cutouts, custom laser-cut materials, intricate embellishments and custom embroidery.

He has made clothing designs that have been worn by Hollywood celebrities and featured on America’s Next Top Model. He designed the Sinag Barong (an embroidered long-sleeved formal shirt for men and a national dress of the Philippines) worn by Team Philippines at the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Indonesian fashion designer Priyo Oktaviano (in black) celebrates his collection, “Batik Revolution,” with VIFW President Trang (in golden dress).

Meanwhile, Indonesian fashion designer Priyo Oktaviano showcases his admiration for batik, the traditional fabric of Indonesia, in his collection “Batik Revolution.”

Batik fabrics are dyed using wax to create patterns and a marbled effect. Its popular patterns include geometric riffs on flora and fauna as well as representations of abstract concepts like love. UNESCO named batik to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009.

The “Batik Revolution” collection features 41 designs, including long coats, soft shirts, co-ord sets, and evening gowns made of vibrant batik fabrics with classic motifs.

The designer uses crystal stones, sparkling metal studs, and leather accessories to create elements of rebellion for the designs, while maintaining a neat, tailored aesthetic.

Graduating with great recommendations from Esmod Paris in 2001, Oktaviano started his grand fashion adventure at the House of Balenciaga Paris. He won top prizes at fashion design competitions in Europe before returning to Indonesia in 2008.

Oktaviano’s modern sense of style brings everything to a whole new dimension. His designs are bright and trendy, featuring unusual cuts and silhouettes, as well as pop colours, along with elements reminiscent of old cultures.

He was awarded as Indonesian Fashion Designer of the Year at the ELLE Awards 2009.

The AVIFW Fall/Winter 2025 also featured designs by Natacha Van from Cambodia, Kel Wen from Malaysia, Bandid Lasavong from Laos and Frederick Lee from Singapore.

The event was held from November 12 to 15 at the Quần Ngựa Gymnasium in Ngọc Hà Ward. — VNS

Two áo dài designs from the “Kẻ Mộng Du” collection by Tiến.

Tiến’s designs are decorated with brocade fabrics and embroidered folk patterns.

Two looks from the collection “VISIONS” by Libirian.

Two looks from the collection “Batik Revolution” by Oktaviano.