Thanh Hà

Dương Lệ Mẫn and her Danish boyfriend Mika Nelsson have said they are both very impressed with Huế’s popular traditional handmade cakes, including bánh bèo chén (water fern cake), bánh nậm (flat steamed rice dumplings), bánh bột lọc (clear tapioca dumplings) and especially bánh ram ít (fried crispy sticky rice cake topped with steamed sticky rice cake).

The couple, who recently toured the Imperial City of Huế, told Việt Nam News that they enjoyed the rice cakes so much that despite overindulging, they did not feel heavy or sluggish.

With their attractive appearance and delicious flavour, the cakes are a favourite for fooodies. — Photo mia.vn

Mẫn quoted a seller as saying: “I’ve been selling the dish for nearly 60 years, and your boyfriend is the first of my customers who can enjoy three plates of bánh ram ít at the same time. The cake is made from sticky rice dough, so eaters often feel very full after two plates.”

Mẫn’s boyfriend said he was very grateful to the seller, adding that it was the first time he had enjoyed such a delicious dish. 

“It is unforgettable," he said. "It’s well worth a trip to experience the Imperial City and also Huế’s culinary specialties.”

Bánh ram ít (fried crispy sticky rice cake topped with steamed sticky rice cake) is one of Huế's specialties. — Photo mia.vn

To make a standard bánh ram ít, seller Hoàng Cẩm Nhung said she has to buy quality glutinous rice, then grind it and soak it for four hours, with help from her family members. 

“It is a secret to preserve the cake’s traditional flavour, because this helps to make the cake smoother and more fragrant compared with glutinous rice powder bought from the markets or supermarkets,” she said.

Ingredients for the dumplings should not be minced pork, as in other cakes, but river shrimp instead. Locally known as tôm đất, the shrimp are characteristic of Huế's culinary tradition. They should be fried with pork fat or cooking oil and minced dried onions for 10 minutes.

A tray of traditional Huế cakes, handmade with great skill. — Photo banhbachi.com

“Tôm đất helps to create a very unique flavour for Huế's bánh ram ít,” said Nhung.

For traditional dumplings, making a beautiful cake requires skilled hands to shape the dough and keep the filling inside without it coming out, said Nhung, adding that cakes are steamed over a medium fire for 15-20 minutes.

A very beautiful corner of Huế's Lăng Cô Bay. — Photo vinwonders.com

But for ram cake, there is no filling. The cake is in a round form and deep fried in cooking oil until it gets a golden brown colour. After cooking, it is topped with bánh ít, releasing a unique flavour and scent that attracts locals and foreign visitors alike, said Nhung.

Author's recommendations

Bánh ram ít is available in any corner of Huế. I have found some amazing savoury cakes at the following places:

Quán bánh ram ít Bà Đỏ at 8 Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm Street, open from 8am to 9pm, with prices ranging from VNĐ10,000-50,000 per plate.

Quán bánh ram ít Mệ Lé at 104/17/9 Kim Long Street, open from 6am-10pm, with prices ranging from VNĐ15,000- 25,000. Mệ Lé sells a number of savoury cakes, with bánh ram ít one of the best sellers. 

The Tây Lộc Culinary Market at 209 Nguyễn Trãi Street, Tây Lộc Ward. This market was the largest in the past. There are many shops selling bánh ram ít in the market at affordable prices from VNĐ5,000-7,000.

Quán Bà Chi at 2/64 Hoàng Diệu; 65 Nguyễn Trãi and 51 Lê Viết Lượng, open from 8am-8pm. Apart from bánh ram ít, these shops serve a tray with four specialty cakes, including bánh bèo chén, bánh nậm or clear tapioca dumplings at VNĐ100,000 per tray. — VNS