At Liên Hương, dishes are purely plant-based, focusing on natural ingredients rather than imitation meat. VNS Photo Lyly

By Trinh Nguyễn

Hidden within the grounds of the Việt Nam Puppetry Theatre on Trường Chinh Street, Buffet Lẩu Chay Liên Hương offers a quiet escape from the city's bustle. In a neighbourhood where meals are often quick and practical, the restaurant invites diners to slow down and savour vegetarian cuisine in its most natural form.

Vegetarian food in Việt Nam is no longer limited to religious occasions or older generations. In recent years, it has become part of a wider lifestyle shift, linked to health, sustainability and, to some extent, curiosity.

Many restaurants now try to recreate meat dishes in plant-based form, sometimes so convincing that you almost forget what you are eating. Liên Hương, however, goes in a different direction.

For owner Lê Bá Quyết, the decision to open a vegetarian restaurant did not begin with religion.

“I came to vegetarian food before I came to Buddhism,” he said, adding that what first drew him was the idea of protecting the environment, followed by the health benefits. Eating this way, he says, makes both the body and the mind feel lighter.

Instead of relying on mock meats, Liên Hương keeps things close to their natural form. Most dishes are made from vegetables, mushrooms, tofu and grains, with very little attempt to imitate meat or seafood. The flavours are clean and light, yet the meal still leaves diners full and energised.

The individual hotpot design allows diners to choose their preferred broth, which is light, clear and clean in flavour. VNS Photo Trinh Nguyễn

The hotpot is at the centre of it all. Each seat is designed for an individual pot, allowing diners to choose their own broth rather than sharing one for the whole table. This means people can eat at their own pace, according to their own preferences, without needing to follow others.

According to Quyết, the broth is made from sugarcane, radish, pineapple, red dates and goji berries, slowly simmered to bring out a natural sweetness. It doesn’t hit you strongly at first taste, but after a few bites, you start to notice it more. It feels light but still satisfying. Some diners even skip dipping sauces, which is quite unusual in Vietnamese dining, but here it somehow works.

There is also a herbal broth, inspired by traditional Eastern medicine. Quyết, who spent time learning cooking techniques influenced by Taiwanese methods, prepares the broth in stages so it does not become bitter.

The modest, warm setting adds to the overall dining experience. VNS Photo Trinh Nguyễn

The herbs are measured carefully, almost like a prescription, then simmered. The result is mild, not too strong. Not everyone will like it at first, but some people come back just for it.

While the hotpot is the main attraction, Liên Hương also offers a range of other dishes worth trying. Nem thính – shredded mushroom mixed with roasted rice powder stands out for its fragrant flavour and slightly unusual texture. Phở cuốn – fresh rice rolls with vegetables and tofu – is light and clean, with a simple but appealing colour palette, of green herbs, orange carrot, pale yellow tofu and soft white rice sheets. Even the braised mushrooms, a more familiar dish, are well balanced, with a gentle savoury taste that does not feel heavy.

The fried rice, which Quyết often mentions as a favourite, is perhaps the most surprising. It sounds simple, but the texture is what makes it different. Each grain is soft yet slightly crisp at the same time, achieved by combining two cooking methods. There are no complicated ingredients, just rice and a bit of colour from vegetables, but it works better than expected.

According to Quyết, a good vegetarian dish depends on three things: the skill of the cook, clean ingredients, and attention during cooking.

The idea of "putting your mind into the food" may sound abstract, but in reality it just means focusing on what you are doing, not rushing, not being distracted. Ingredients are taken seriously.

The vegetables are sourced from a supplier in the northwest and delivered fresh every day. In a city where many people still worry about food safety, this is something that matters. It is not presented in a big way, but you can feel it in the food.

The setting, meanwhile, adds quietly to the experience. On a good day, diners can sit in the courtyard under the shade of an old banyan tree, where the air feels noticeably cooler.

Inside, rows of wooden columns give the space a slight resemblance to a traditional Vietnamese house. It is simple, not overly decorated, but comfortable enough to make people stay longer than they planned.

The customers here are quite mixed. There are people who follow a vegetarian diet for a long time, but also many young people, students and office workers. Some do not eat vegetarian food every day, but they come here because the food is lighter and not too oily.

A customer, Dương Mai Anh, said she turned to vegetarian food after a serious illness, when doctors had already told her family to prepare for the worst.

Dương Mai Anh, 53, who has been vegan for 18 years, says her health has improved significantly thanks to her diet. VNS Photo Trinh Nguyễn

“At that time I did not have many choices,” she said. “I just tried eating vegetarian, and slowly my health improved.”

Now, after eighteen years, she is still in good health at the age of 53. Sitting with a pot of hot broth in front of her, she smiles and says: “I don’t think it is something magical, but it really changed my life.”

Liên Hương does not seek to reinvent vegetarian cuisine. Instead, it celebrates its essentials: fresh ingredients, careful preparation and flavours that stay true to nature. In a dining scene shaped by constantly changing trends, that quiet confidence may be precisely what keeps diners coming back.— VNS

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LIÊN HƯƠNG VEGAN RESTAURANT

Address: 361 Trường Chinh Street, Kim Liên Ward, Hà Nội

Opening hours: 10am – 2pm; 5pm – 9pm

Tel: 097 629 31 46

Comment: A cosy vegetarian restaurant serving light, flavourful hotpot and a variety of plant-based dishes.