By Hamy Nguyễn

You won’t struggle to find a taste of Sài Gòn in Hà Nội these days but a true Southern-style sidewalk drinking spot remains a rarer breed, with Quyền Sài Gòn standing out for its distinctive approach. At Quyền Sài Gòn, the flavours lean Southern yet feel thoughtfully tuned to Northern palates: less sugary, less fiery, and more balanced overall.

Salt-and-chilli grilled 'cá kèo'. — Photos courtesy of Hamy Nguyễn

I’d been meaning to try it for a while. Out of seven in my friendship group, six swore by it and one of them even goes weekly. The only holdout was me, still unconvinced, which made the question harder to ignore: what exactly gives a humble street-side drinking joint this kind of pull?

To understand a place like Quyền Sài Gòn, you have to start with the rhythm of Sài Gòn-style nhậu. It is not just about food but about tempo and texture: quick-fired dishes, bold seasoning and a constant interplay of sweet, savoury and heat, designed to keep the beer flowing.

Unlike the more composed, meal-centred rhythm of Northern dining, Southern nhậu lives on spontaneity: small plates landing fast, flavours hitting loud, conversations getting louder. It is street food at its most social, where balance is not delicate or restrained but dynamic and unapologetically alive.

At Quyền Sài Gòn, the flavours lean Southern yet feel thoughtfully adapted to Northern palates: less sugary, less fiery and more balanced overall.

Tucked into the courtyard of an old apartment block, Quyền Sài Gòn feels both hidden and expansive at once: easy to miss from the street yet surprisingly open once you step inside. The space spills out into a breezy communal yard, giving it a distinctly Sài Gòn-style sidewalk energy without the crush of traffic just inches away.

You might be surprised by just how long the menu at Quyền Sài Gòn is, but there is no need to panic, as the dishes that are truly worth ordering stand out.

The crispy rice (VNĐ50,000) and braised pork cartilage ribs (VNĐ170,000) are the undisputed must-orders. The rice is pressed ultra-thin, then fried until it shatters into a golden, crackling sheet: light, brittle and almost snack-like.

It is paired with a pot of ribs lacquered in a dark, glossy sauce that clings to every bite, rich and deeply savoury in that slow-burning caramelised way that makes you forget restraint exists.

Crispy rice and braised pork cartilage ribs.

From there, the grilled prawns (VNĐ80,000/100 grams) arrive simple but precise: plump, visibly fresh and just kissed by heat until the shells turn aromatic, lightly charred and almost caramelised at the edges, locking in a clean natural sweetness beneath a gentle layer of smoke.

The salt-and-chilli grilled cá kèo, or goby fish, (VNĐ70,000/100 grams) takes a more assertive turn: small river fish blistered over an open flame until the skin tightens and crisps, then hit with a bold seasoning of salt and chilli that clings to every crevice.

It is the kind of dish meant to be worked through with your hands: torn apart, eaten fast and chased immediately with a sip of beer before the heat builds too far. I will admit I am not usually a big fan of cá kèo but here it is surprisingly well-seasoned and more addictive than expected.

Grilled prawns.

The garlic butter squid (VNĐ90,000/100 grams) is all about contrast: tender rings and tentacles tossed in sizzling oil, where fried garlic lands like confetti, coating everything in a rich, addictive aroma that lingers on the table long after the plate is cleared.

The cá kèo hotpot (VNĐ400,000) at Quyền Sài Gòn offers a quieter contrast to the rest of the menu: light, refreshing and gently sour in a way that feels clean rather than sharp. The broth carries a subtle tang that opens up slowly while the generous mix of Southern aromatic herbs and wild greens brings that unmistakable Southwestern signature: fragrant, slightly bitter and deeply aromatic. Paired with tender cá kèo cooked just until silky, it is a comforting, well-rounded pot that feels both simple and thoughtfully balanced.

Cá kèo hotpot.

And just when things feel properly savoury, the candied sweet potato (VNĐ60,000) resets the palate. Soft, sticky and lightly caramelised, it’s simple by design, more of a closing note than a statement, but exactly the kind of quiet finish that keeps the cycle of ordering going.

In the end, Quyền Sài Gòn doesn’t try to dress itself up as anything more than what it is: a humble, sidewalk-style drinking spot. There’s no polished concept, no carefully curated branding, just a steady stream of dishes coming out of the kitchen and tables that rarely stay empty for long.

Garlic butter squid.

But that’s exactly where its strength lies. In a setting this unpretentious, it’s the food that does all the convincing: bold, consistent and quietly addictive enough to turn first-time visitors into regulars. VNS

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Quyền Sài Gòn

Address: 116 D3, Giảng Võ Street, Giảng Võ Apartment Complex, Giảng Võ Ward, Hà Nội

Price: VNĐ50,000-450,000

Comment: bold, lively, satisfying, buzzing and vibrant