Terracotta figurines used to adorn the Huế Restaurant’s space. – Photos courtesy of Hamy Nguyễn

By Hamy Nguyễn

As Lunar New Year approaches, I find myself wanting, almost craving, to write about a Vietnamese restaurant. I am glad that today, when writing about Vietnamese restaurants, the options feel endless: contemporary spaces, carefully curated modern concepts and long-standing traditional dining rooms. Yet, time and again, my thoughts circle back to a Huế restaurant.

Partly because it is a familiar place for my family and all groups of friends, one we return to with an ease that needs no explanation. And partly because, after writing so much about Vietnamese cuisine, it would feel like a quiet oversight to leave Huế out of the conversation.

Bánh xèo Huế (Huế-style sizzling pancake).

There is a simple truth: finding a good Huế restaurant in Hà Nội is no easy task. Huế cuisine is inherently demanding, precise in seasoning, restrained in presentation and deeply rooted in ritual and balance. It leaves very little room for shortcuts or exaggeration.

Somewhat confusingly, it is simply called Huế, tucked inside a yellow villa down a quiet alley. The dining room is consistently full, drawing both Vietnamese regulars and international guests in search of Huế done with care.

Bánh ít nhân tôm (steamed glutinous rice dumplings with shrimp).

The restaurant feels removed from the pace of the city the moment you step inside. The space is calm and understated, with a thoughtful use of traditional details: blue-and-white ceramic plates lining the walls, terracotta figurines and softly glowing lanterns that lend the room a gentle warmth. Nothing feels overly styled or nostalgic; instead, the atmosphere quietly reflects what Huế cuisine stands for.

Thịt luộc chấm tôm chua (boiled pork with Huế-style pickled shrimp).

The first dish you should order without hesitation is steamed glutinous rice dumplings with shrimp – bánh ít nhân tôm (VNĐ65,000). The glutinous rice wrapper is soft and delicate, just thin enough to gently embrace the filling without weighing it down. Inside, the shrimp is well seasoned and juicy, delivering a savoury depth that feels clean and comforting rather than heavy. A small dish, but one that quietly sets the tone for everything that follows.

It would feel incomplete to explore Huế cuisine without this classic pairing: boiled pork with Huế-style pickled shrimp – thịt luộc chấm tôm chua (VNĐ190,000). At first glance, it appears almost too simple: slices of boiled pork served with herbs, rice paper and pickled shrimp. Yet the pickled shrimp here is beautifully balanced between saltiness and sweetness, sharp yet rounded, cutting through the richness of the pork rather than overpowering it. This is Huế cooking at its core: restraint turned into complexity.

'Hến xúc bánh đa' (stir-fried baby clams with crispy rice crackers).

Distinct from its southern counterpart, Huế-style sizzling pancake: bánh xèo Huế (VNĐ115,000) is thinner, crispier and far more restrained, and this version gets it exactly right. The pancake shatters lightly at the bite, carrying subtle notes of coconut milk and the gentle nuttiness of mung beans. The filling is generous, with large pieces of shrimp and pork that make each mouthful deeply satisfying without tipping into excess.

Stir-fried baby clams with crispy rice crackers: hến xúc bánh đa (VNĐ115,000) leans unapologetically into bold, savoury flavours. The baby clams are intensely seasoned, rich and aromatic, designed to be scooped up with thin, brittle bánh đa that are excellent in their own right, crisp, light and full of character.

Huế Restaurant tucks inside a yellow villa down a quiet alley.

To close the meal, Huế-style spicy beef noodle soup, bún bò Huế (VNĐ90,000) offers a surprisingly gentle finish. The broth is clear and well balanced, noticeably lighter on fermented notes than many versions elsewhere. Rather than overwhelming the palate, it refreshes it: an elegant, understated ending that feels entirely aligned with the quiet sophistication of Huế cuisine.

Bún bò Huế (Huế-style spicy beef noodle soup).

In a city where Vietnamese restaurants continue to reinvent themselves, Huế chooses a quieter path, one rooted in balance, patience and respect for tradition. It is not a place that chases trends or spectacle, but one that rewards those willing to slow down and pay attention. Perhaps that is why it feels especially fitting for Tết, a time for returning, for remembering and for finding comfort in flavours that speak softly yet stay with you long after the meal ends. VNS

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HUẾ RESTAURANT

Address: 1 Alley 36, Đào Tấn Street, Ba Đình, Hà Nội

Price: from VNĐ60,000 – 530,000

Comment: traditional, nostalgic, comforting, elegant, homestyle, cosy.