By AF Reeves – @afreeves23

Having dedicated a larger-than-intended proportion of my columns to the broad and increasingly eclectic array of new cuisines that have established themselves in Việt Nam’s food scene, it occurred to me that these articles were originally meant to celebrate a love affair, not only with Vietnamese food itself, but also with the bold directions local chefs are taking.

VIBRANT: The dining room is an experience, anything but understated. Photos courtesy of @afreeves23

Such is the ever-growing variety available these days, it is easy to lose one’s way amongst the fresh and exciting flavours, and frankly, who can blame us? Hà Nội now ranks highly as a foodie destination for tourists across various publications and award bodies.

Still though, resident or not, a switch-up can help with refocusing and remembering original intentions. My move to the Văn Miếu area of central Hà Nội did exactly that (just by the Temple of Literature for any head-scratching Tây Hồ readers).

Văn Miếu is a clash of modern, tourist-focused businesses out front and small local joints tucked into the alleys around the block. From Michelin-starred Gia, which I had the pleasure of covering a few years ago, to the cháo sườn (pork porridge) lady who became a more regular face in my life during the winter months, it is vibrant and varied, with traditional and experimental tastes in close proximity. But what if both could be found under one roof?

A FULL SPREAD: Get a variety of dishes to truly experience the menu.

A scroll through the neighbourhood via Google Maps turned up Miss Hanoi, and admittedly the name did little to win me over. The concern being that this would be another “all under one roof” type of affair. Without naming names, there are Vietnamese restaurants dotted across the city which seem determined to cram their menus with everything from bò kho to bún chả, offering tourists and locals alike a one-size-fits-all solution to their cravings. Happily, that assumption was well wide of the mark.

Downstairs was somewhat of a mystery to me. Part art installation, part alternative souvenir space. Think ‘Tired City’ but more interactive and original. It seemed popular with a younger crowd, with opportunities to snap photos in traditional dress, building a sense of intrigue before dinner.

“Upstairs you taste the culture, downstairs you experience it,” said founder Diệu Hương, describing the project as “a modern folk culture space”.

“I hope people understand that we are trying to reinterpret Vietnamese heritage in a living, contemporary way. We are not preserving culture inside glass cabinets; we are letting people touch it, wear it, taste it and experience it,” she added.

JUST A BITE: The mini bánh mì menu offers some unheard combinations.

Diệu Hương wants visitors to feel as though they are walking between folklore and modern Hà Nội all at once. In a nation with such a proud and purposeful connection to its heritage and history, that’s quite the task, but she’s also part of the perfect storm.

Việt Nam has long been the recipient of envious glances abroad as its young population contrasts heavily against the ageing demographics of today’s global super powers. That young generation is now coming of age; proud, ambitious and entrepreneurial. They seek to modernise and redefine our experiences of Vietnamese culture and its cuisine.

Upstairs I’m greeted with an almost patriotic, red-heavy bar which gives way to a sleek dining room adorned with local art and classic storylines reimagined in new-style murals. A crab and a dragon hang from the ceiling. There’s a lot to take in, but the all-too-familiar sound of laughter and clinking glasses pulls me back into the room. We’re guided to a quiet table in the corner and begin working our way through a menu of which, excitingly, I recognised almost nothing.

VIVA LA VIETNAM: Every country should have a twist on nachos.

‘Bát-Ta Xa Lát’ (VNĐ125,000) has soft, well-seasoned grilled meatballs over a “salad” of vermicelli noodles, bean sprouts and mint leaves. Their house-made tahini is creamy and a little sweeter than those with a Middle Eastern palate might expect, but in no way overpowering. It blends together well: light, flavoursome and great for cleansing between richer plates. An early thumbs up and we’re off to a good start.

‘Na-Chô Ta Phủ Thịt Kho’ (VNĐ180,000) is a humble riff on the snack that transcends all borders. For my money, all cultures should have their own take on nachos, and Việt Nam has one here. Guacamole and sour cream are where they belong, while the distinct flavour of the much-loved caramelised braised pork adds a new dimension. This isn’t reinventing the wheel, but instead marrying a local classic with a bite appreciated worldwide.

‘Bát-Ta Bánh Đa’ (VNĐ95,000), meanwhile, is described as “the typical Vietnamese mom’s breakfast” and features a type of bolognaise over phở-style noodles. This one left me conflicted. The idea, a Vietnamese take on a sauce that rarely disappoints, promises something simple, homely and satisfying beyond the sum of its parts.

Unfortunately the ‘bolognaise’ was under-seasoned and didn’t quite hit the spot, though I won’t hesitate to try again on my next visit.

FRESHEN UP: The mint and house-made tahini exceeded expectations.

Lastly, a fun section of the menu is a selection of mini bánh mì that you won’t find at even the most inventive auntie carts.

While a bún chả option will appeal to many, we were enticed by ‘Bánh Mì Nhớ Mẹ’ (VNĐ70,000). The caramelised braised pork and egg is sweet, salty and indulgent, cut against the tang of fermented mustard greens. It was coupled with ‘Bánh Mì Hàng Xóm’ (VNĐ65,000), made up of braised pork ear and tongue. Rustic, simple, textured and full of flavour, Fergus Henderson would no doubt approve.

Miss Hanoi is a much-needed reminder that when I eat out, Vietnamese food is still an exciting option, and it doesn’t always need a tyre company’s star next to its name to be doing great things. From the design of the space to the names of the dishes, and from the music to the storytelling elements, it’s layered and intentional. This is fun, new food without pretension, and it won’t break the bank.

A handful of plates satisfies your craving for something local and something new on the same table. With the menu set to change seasonally, head down soon, either to mirror this experience or to embody the spirit with which we enjoyed it and fall into something entirely new. Either way, it’s very much a hit, in all but name. VNS

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MISS HÀ NỘI

Address: 55 Văn Miếu Street, Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám, Đống Đa, Hà Nội

Tel: 0962 558 855

Price: VNĐ535,000 or US$20 (for all food, excluding drinks)

Dining companions: Date night, family and friends, fellow foodies.

Top tip: The more the merrier, imagine modern Việt tapas.