Vietnamese designer Phan Huy (right) with model Coco Rocha (centre) at the Paris Haute Couture SS26 show on January 29. — AFP/VNA Photo

HÀ NỘI — At just 27, Vietnamese designer Phan Huy has entered the rarefied world of Paris haute couture, unveiling a Spring–Summer 2026 collection that reinterprets imperial Vietnamese aesthetics through contemporary craftsmanship..

On January 29, he unveiled his Spring/Summer 2026 collection entitled Cành Vàng Lá Ngọc (The Golden Branch and Jade Leaf, also known as Born of Gold and Jade).

Featuring 35 evening dresses, the collection makes extensive use of light muslin and tulle, with intricately hand-stitched floral and beaded details.

It evokes the purity and quiet grace of spring through the lens of Vietnamese imperial art. The title refers to a rare historical treasure: ornamental floral works created by ancient artisans, with branches cast in solid gold and leaves carved from jade.

Today, only three such artefacts remain preserved in Huế, standing as silent witnesses to a refined past.

Phan Huy draws inspiration from Nguyễn dynasty figures including Empress Nam Phương. — Photo courtesy of Phan Huy

Huy wrote on his Facebook page: “Beyond its literal meaning, Cành Vàng Lá Ngọc carries deep cultural symbolism. In Vietnamese tradition, the phrase denotes people of noble lineage, men and women distinguished by status, refinement, and cultivated bearing. This metaphor forms the emotional foundation of the collection, shaping both its spirit and its silhouettes.”

The designer, who turned 27 last week, drew inspiration from figures of the Nguyễn dynasty, including Crown Prince Bảo Long, Empress Nam Phương, and Emperor Khải Định. Their lives represent a pivotal moment when Vietnamese imperial traditions encountered Western influence.

It was an era of ceremony and elegance, where modern ideas engaged with heritage. That cultural meeting is reinterpreted through couture techniques, precise tailoring and careful craftsmanship.

Phan Huy draws inspiration from Nguyễn Dynasty figures including Empress Nam Phương. — Photo courtesy of Phan Huy

Huy’s Couture Spring–Summer 2026 collection is conceived as a legacy for future generations. Using rare materials, hand embroidery, and sculptural forms, it recalls the splendour of gold-and-jade artistry.

The result is a couture vision rooted in heritage yet shaped by a refined modern spirit - regal in presence and unmistakably marked by the signature of Phan Huy.

While ready-to-wear weeks increasingly highlight designers in their late twenties and early thirties, couture remains different: creative directors and founders usually appear after decades of experience, often in their forties or fifties.

Against this backdrop, Huy’s presence at 27 is both unusual and significant. He is not only the youngest participant but also the first Vietnamese designer to feature in the programme.

Phan Huy’s SS26 couture features hand embroidery and sculptural forms inspired by gold-and-jade artistry. — Photo courtesy of Phan Huy

His invitation to Paris Haute Couture Week came from the French fashion federation, FHCM, guardian of the country’s fashion weeks and a key trend setter.

Alongside permanent French couture houses, the federation invites guest designers worldwide who demonstrate both skill and commitment to handmade craft, the foundation of couture.

“The achievement is the result of a focused and methodical build rather than overnight visibility, Fashion United Senior Editor Don-Alvin Adegeest," wrote.

"Behind the Paris debut lie years of research, experimentation and atelier development, alongside close collaboration with skilled artisans in Việt Nam.

"The brand’s work draws on traditional Vietnamese techniques, including hand weaving, embroidery and natural plant-based dyeing, while integrating contemporary processes such as laser-cut patterning and modern couture construction.

"The result is a design language that is both rooted and forward-looking, a balance increasingly sought after by international fashion institutions.”

Creations by Phan Huy have attracted attention from industry professionals and celebrities. — Photo courtesy of Phan Huy

Born in Quảng Trị Province and raised in the coastal city of Nha Trang, Huy showed an early interest in fashion. At six, he began experimenting with fabric from his parents’ curtain shop, turning it into dresses for dolls.

In 2023, he graduated top of the Fashion Design Faculty at Hồ Chí Minh City University of Architecture with a collection inspired by the imagery of fields and mountains at sunset, as depicted in the lacquer painting La Moyenne Région (The Midland Region) by artists Nguyễn Tiến Chung and Hoàng Tích Chù.

His creations were worn by local celebrities, including singers Mỹ Tâm and Hồ Ngọc Hà.

Vietnamese imperial heritage meets Western couture in Phan Huy’s work. — Photo courtesy of Phan Huy

That same year, Huy founded the fashion label PHAN HUY with business partner Steven Đoàn. The brand has quickly entered a field that includes some of the world’s most exclusive names such as Chanel, Dior, and Armani.

Since then, Huy has regularly presented collections such as Lost in the Cavern and Afterglow at Tam Giang Lagoon during Paris Fashion Week, attracting attention from industry professionals, celebrities, influencers, editors, stylists and designers.

According to co-founder and chief executive Đoàn, the label has received strong demand from customers worldwide, not only in Việt Nam. — VNS