Designer Bùi Hoàng Ân’s latest collection, Sắc Chiếu Dệt Tình (Sedge Mat Weaving of Love), is inspired by the colourful sedge mats of the weaving craft village of Định Yên in Đồng Tháp Province. — Photo courtesy of the designer

HÀ NỘI — Amid the fast pace of modern life, where many fashion designers chase global trends, Bùi Hoàng Ân has chosen a slower yet steadfast path: returning to local culture and traditional craft villages that quietly endure.

The 33‑year‑old designer has just unveiled his latest collection, Sắc Chiếu Dệt Tình (Sedge Mat Weaving of Love), inspired by the colourful sedge mats from the weaving craft village of Định Yên in Đồng Tháp Province, part of the southern Mekong Delta. More than a fashion showcase, the collection carries a message about maintaining and promoting traditional cultural values.

That journey begins with raw sedge fibres from the wetlands – a rustic, coarse material which through the skilful hands of artisans is transformed into mats of vivid colours: passionate red, tender green and warm yellow. These hues not only create striking visual contrasts but also echo the enduring rhythm of labour in a centuries‑old craft village.

Each design is conceived as a vivid slice of life in Định Yên Village. — Photo courtesy of the designer

At a time when sedge mats are fading into memory and are being replaced by more convenient industrially produced materials, Ân chooses to engage in dialogue with the past. He does not attempt to preserve the craft by reproducing it in its original form, but instead seeks to extend its cultural breath through fashion design. 

For him, the mat is more than a household item – it is a symbol of family and connection, and of childhood dreams once woven into each strand of sedge.

The collection comprises seven designs conceived as a vivid slice of life in Định Yên Village, from early mornings of cutting sedge in the fields, through drying, dyeing and weaving, to the completion of mats inseparable from daily life in the village. 

Ân’s design language blends modern silhouettes with traditional spirit, evoking the áo bà ba (traditional southern blouse), stylised motifs such as the character 'Hỷ', meaning happiness, and colourful strands that create strong visual effects reminiscent of sedge fibres awaiting the loom.

A notable choice lies in his handling of materials. Rather than using sedge directly – which is difficult to preserve and technically restrictive – he selected fabrics with similar textures and tones, retaining the spirit of the sedge mat while ensuring durability and professionalism.

Designer Bùi Hoàng Ân with ethnic children in Hà Giang. — Photo tienphong.vn

This collection also marks a return to an unfinished idea. In the past, Ân experimented with the theme of mats but lacked the experience to fully realise it. That earlier attempt became the driving force for him to revisit and refine the concept, resulting in a collection prepared with care over more than a year.

From his debut collection Dệt Nắng Chàm (Weaving Indigo Sunlight), which drew on the indigo dyeing techniques of the Mông ethnic group in Hà Giang’s karst plateau, to this new collection, Ân’s creative journey reflects a consistent vision: telling the story of Vietnamese culture through modern fashion. 

Free from short‑term trends, each of his collections represents a cultural fragment, researched seriously and developed with a long‑term commitment.

More importantly, he shows an ability to connect heritage with the future, proving that fashion is not only for wearing but also for storytelling, remembrance and continuity. Ân has remained steadfast in pursuing cultural fashion, aiming to bring culture closer to young people so that it is not seen as outdated or difficult to approach.

More than a fashion showcase, the collection carries a message about maintaining and promoting traditional cultural values. — Photo courtesy of the designer

Before Sedge Mat Weaving of Love, he explored themes such ascải lương (southern reformed opera), tuồng cổ (classical drama) and múa bóng rỗi (a traditional ritual dance and singing from the Mekong Delta). His decision to place the Mekong Delta and southern Việt Nam at the centre of his creativity stems from the reality that this cultural region, despite its distinctive richness, has been little explored in fashion.

Looking ahead, Ân has expressed his ambition to develop cultural collections with a futuristic orientation, bringing Vietnamese identity closer to younger generations and to major international runways. — OVN/VNS