WEST LAKE VIEW: Chops Wagyu BBQ overlooks West Lake from Quảng An Street. — Photo courtesy of Chops Wagyu BBQ

Thuỳ Linh

Chops Wagyu BBQ was an unexpected discovery. An old friend and I had planned to meet at The Fat Pig, a long-standing favourite of ours, only to find that it had closed and been replaced by this restaurant. With our original plans falling through, we decided to give the newcomer a try.

We had not booked a table, but were lucky enough to find one by the window overlooking West Lake. It was just the spot for two old friends to settle down, order some food and catch up.

CYBERPUNK: Neon blue and purple lights set the mood at Chops Wagyu BBQ. — Photo courtesy of Chops Wagyu BBQ

The restaurant embraces a cyberpunk aesthetic, with electric blue, purple and yellow lighting. The atmosphere was lively, although the lighting felt a little too dim and blue for my taste. Even with four or five tables grilling meat at the same time, however, the restaurant remained spacious, clean and tidy. That earned it considerable points in my book.

Once seated, we were shown how to scan a QR code to order. While browsing the menu, we were served a complimentary selection of six seasonal banchan (Korean side dishes), fresh vegetables for wrapping the meat and detox water. All were free of charge and regularly replenished.

COMPLIMENTARY SIDES: Seasonal 'banchan' and fresh vegetables for wrapping the meat are served free of charge. — VNS Photo Thuỳ Linh

Following the staff's recommendation on portion sizes for two, we ordered the Deluxe Set (VNĐ750,000), featuring Tajima rump and Wagyu Karubi short ribs, along with kimchi soup (VNĐ160,000) and grilled corn with Japanese sauce (VNĐ50,000).

One particularly welcome touch was that staff took charge of grilling the meat themselves, allowing us to enjoy our conversation rather than constantly keeping an eye on the grill.

The beef was undoubtedly the highlight of the meal. I asked for it cooked medium, with an evenly seared exterior and a slightly pink centre. Each piece was firm yet tender, holding its texture without becoming crumbly.

FRESH: The Wagyu is served unseasoned, allowing the natural flavour of the beef to shine. — VNS Photo Thuỳ Linh

The meat was served unseasoned, allowing us to appreciate its delicate sweetness and tenderness. The evenly distributed marbling also helped keep each piece juicy and succulent as it cooked.

The rump was thinly sliced, so I asked for it to be seared a little more heavily. Leaner cuts can easily dry out on the grill, but the beef remained juicy and sweet.

The staff handled the grilling with impressive skill, suggesting they had received thorough training.

While preparing the meat, one staff member explained that the beef was imported and underwent stringent quality checks to ensure its freshness before reaching the table.

The side dishes were a mixed bag, with some more successful than others. The corn was cut into quarters lengthways, evenly grilled and coated in a sweet-and-spicy honey sauce. It was tempting at first, but the generous amount of oil made it rather rich, and it quickly became a little heavy when eaten alongside the grilled meat.

The kimchi soup was a more balanced choice. Its traditional fermented tang was offset by a warming heat, creating a harmonious flavour. The deep-red broth was rich and savoury, complemented by silky soft tofu and pork belly that had been slow-smoked for eight hours.

BALANCED: Kimchi soup brings together the tang of fermentation and a warming spicy kick. — VNS Photo Thuỳ Linh

To round off the meal, a staff member introduced us to the complimentary self-service ice cream counter, which offered six flavours: chocolate, vanilla, matcha, strawberry, cốm (young green rice) and coconut. I opted for chocolate and matcha, while my friend chose cốm.

The ice cream was smooth, melted quickly on the tongue and had neither an overpowering milky taste nor an artificial aftertaste. It was a light and fitting finish to a barbecue dinner.

At VNĐ960,000 for the meal, the experience was a treat for the senses. Joining the restaurant's membership programme also brings a 10 per cent discount on future bills.

Behind the grills at Chops Wagyu BBQ is chef Richard Andrew Bardsley, owner of the Chops Vietnam restaurant group.

The chef said he had spent time learning how Asian diners enjoy their meat, including how they pair it with seasonings, sauces and side dishes.

“Rather than simply taking a Western concept and adding a few Asian elements to make it different, I want to understand what makes those elements genuinely meaningful to the dining experience.”

BORDERLESS CUISINE: As a chef and culinary creator, Richie brings together diverse culinary influences to craft a menu that feels both fresh and familiar, with Asian flavours at its heart. — Photo courtesy of VTV

This approach presents Chops Wagyu BBQ with a considerable challenge: how to combine a Western culinary background with the expectations that have already shaped Asia's barbecue scene. The restaurant will inevitably be compared with established competitors from Japan and South Korea.

In terms of premium beef, attentive service and stylish surroundings, Chops Wagyu BBQ appears to tick all the boxes. There are, however, a few details worth considering.

The closely arranged tables leave limited legroom, which may prove uncomfortable for some diners. When the restaurant is busy, sitting so close to neighbouring tables can also compromise privacy.

Even so, my first impression was a positive one, and I hope the restaurant continues to maintain its standards. After that evening, my friend and I may well have found a new favourite spot for our next catch-up. VNS

Chops Wagyu BBQ

Address: 74 Quảng An, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội

Phone: 0961 438 574

Hours: 5–11pm

Cost: Around VNĐ480,000 per person for the Deluxe Set and two side dishes.

Notes: Complimentary banchan, wrapping vegetables, detox water and self-service ice cream. Orders are placed via QR code. Members receive a 10 per cent discount.