Xới Cơm evokes the warmth of home-cooked meals in a cosy, nostalgic atmosphere. Photo courtesy of Xới Cơm

Thanh Hà

Xới Cơm impressed me more than its Michelin honour when my friends treated me to lunch there on a hot day last week.

I was not a fan of rice but was persuaded that Xới Cơm would change my mind, as it has been recognised by both local and international food lovers.

As we walked along the narrow lane off Láng Hạ Street, the bustle of the street faded away. The air turned pleasantly cool, carrying the distinctive aroma from a home-style eatery.

It was an apartment in an old collective quarter chosen for its rustic, cosy atmosphere, evoking memories of family meals shared across generations of Vietnamese people, according to the owner.

He kept the house's original layout intact, skilfully arranging the kitchen and dining area with nostalgic decor – featuring vintage wooden furniture and old-style cabinets reminiscent of Hà Nội homes in the 1980s and 1990s.

With only 15 tables, Xới Cơm can accommodate up to 50 guests, so it's best to call ahead to make a reservation.

Xới Cơm is suitable for family meals and gatherings with friends. — Photo courtesy of Xới Cơm

Manager Đinh Thị Phương Thảo told us that the menu varies daily, but all ingredients are organic and traceable.

"The ingredients are selected based on the principle of eating in season," Thảo said.

"Some of the fresh vegetables come from our small garden in Thanh Trì, taken care of by an agricultural expert. The rest come from highland areas like Mù Cang Chải (Lào Cai Province), where the soil and cool climate yield vegetables with thick leaves and a naturally rich flavour."

She said most of the dishes at Xới Cơm were familiar staples of a northern Vietnamese meal, and recommended that we try rau muống xào tỏi (stir-fried morning glory with garlic), bò cuốn lá lốt (beef rolls in wild betel leaves), tôm sốt quất (shrimp with kumquat sauce), đậu phụ tẩm hành (deep-fried tofu with green onion), chân giò luộc (boiled pork hock), and canh rau cải mơ nấu cá (snakehead fish soup with mustard greens) along with lạc rang muối (salted peanuts) and dưa chua (pickled mustard greens) as side dishes.

Stir-fried morning glory with garlic is a popular dish at Vietnamese restaurants. — Photo courtesy of Xới Cơm

Stir-fried morning glory with garlic must be one of the most popular dishes in Việt Nam because it’s quick to make, uses simple ingredients and has a very appetising flavour. Its popularity has even earned it third place on TasteAtlas's list of the world's 100 best-rated vegetable dishes.

However, retaining its beautiful green colour, crispness and fragrant garlic aroma requires an experienced cook with good control of cooking time and seasoning.

Rau muống xào tỏi, sometimes topped with fried pork greaves, made a great accompaniment to white rice, which I scooped into my bowl using large chopsticks. Doing this brought back fond childhood memories of asking my mother to let me serve the whole family. It was something I hadn't done in over 30 years, as traditional serving chopsticks have largely been replaced by plastic or wooden paddles.

Bò cuốn lá lốt was really nice. I loved the rustic dish for the aromatic, peppery, smoky flavour imparted by the wild betel leaves when they are fried or grilled.

Boiled pork hock and Huế-style pickled shrimp dipping sauce is a best-seller at Xới Cơm. — Photo courtesy of Xới Cơm

Chef Đỗ Thị Tuyến said her boiled pork hock was a best-seller at Xới Cơm because of the long and careful cooking process. The pork was firm yet tender, with crisp skin and lean meat that was savoury and moist. It was perfect when served with a Huế-style pickled shrimp dipping sauce.

She said the pork was ordered from a small farm in Phú Thọ Province and supplied in limited quantities, so it was often one of the first dishes to sell out.

Deep-fried tofu with green onion was a Hanoian classic. I often called it the national favourite as it was loved by both adults and children because of its wonderful texture, which the Xới Cơm chef achieved well: soft, tender tofu beneath a crisp, golden crust.

Deep-fried tofu with green onion is what I call my 'national favourite' dish. — Photo courtesy of Xới Cơm

The sauce was a savoury broth with chopped green onion and enhanced with fish sauce, making it rich, light and delicious.

The snakehead fish soup with mustard greens was also excellent. Combining protein, vegetables and broth in a single bowl, it was everything I needed for a quick meal on a busy day.

The only dish that I had eaten before was the shrimp with kumquat sauce. It had the savoury taste of the seasoning, the natural umami of the shrimp and the mild tang of kumquat. Everything blended so perfectly in a single bite and I found myself eating one shrimp after another.

Shrimp with kumquat sauce takes centre stage in the meal. — Photo courtesy of Xới Cơm

There were still many dishes on Xới Cơm's menu that reminded me of Mum's home cooking and tempted me to return one day. Michelin noted that this cosy restaurant offered diner-friendly prices but, in my opinion, they were slightly higher than average.

Perhaps I will return a few times to see for myself whether its four Michelin honours over seven years are truly well deserved. — VNS

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Xới Cơm

No 107, Lane 36, Láng Hạ Street, Láng Ward, Hà Nội

Tel: 0866810736

Hours: 10.30am–2pm and 5.30pm–9pm

Website: https://www.xoicom.vn/menu

Prices: from VNĐ25,000

Notes: A comfortable venue with helpful staff. Booking in advance is recommended.