Nguyễn Hà My

Vien Dining is a restaurant I had been meaning to try for quite some time. Being selected by the Michelin Guide for two consecutive years certainly gave me another reason to be curious, but it was the restaurant’s approach to Vietnamese fusion that really drew me in.

I have always seen fusion as a creative playground where familiar ingredients and techniques can be pushed beyond their expected boundaries, often revealing possibilities I never saw coming.

Perhaps predictably for someone in communications, Vien’s consistently polished presence across its digital touchpoints only heightened my expectations. I have always believed that when a restaurant takes care with every detail of how it presents itself, that care is likely to make its way to the table too.

Vien’s architecture is not particularly show-stopping. If anything, it feels rather humble, with a restrained palette of warm browns and beige. But the first impression comes from somewhere other than the interiors. As soon as I stepped in, I was greeted by a delicate, almost boutique-like fragrance, with none of the tell-tale smell of food you might expect from a restaurant.

Then came a rather large display of house-fermented drinks by the entrance – an understated but intriguing introduction to what Vien has in store.

The setting may keep things understated, but this is, after all, a restaurant, so I was much more interested in what was about to land on the table.

If one dish captures what Vien is trying to do, the phở essence tartare (Wagyu flank, ant salt, crispy dough, pecorino cheese) for VNĐ385,000 might be it. The tartare takes the familiar aromatics of phở and pairs them with crispy fried dough sticks reminiscent of quẩy. Ant salt adds savouriness and a faintly wild edge. My only complaint is practical: the quẩy needs to be eaten quickly, as reheating can make it lose its crispness and turn rather firm.

Beef and 'lá é' basil clay-pot rice.

Sunlit sea crab (VNĐ315,000) feels like summer on a plate. Fresh crab, bright citrus and zucchini create a light combination, with delicate crab contrasting nicely with crunchy zucchini. I rarely eat zucchini raw, but here it works beautifully with the citrus sauce, which adds acidity without overwhelming the crab’s natural sweetness.

Meanwhile, the real star of the beef and lá é basil clay-pot rice (VNĐ395,000) is the rice. Tender and crispy grains create an addictive contrast, while the seasoning makes it satisfyingly savoury. The Wagyu is tender, juicy and rich – perhaps a touch too rich with the rice. Thankfully, the sour, aromatic lá é herb sauce cuts through it and restores the balance. Sometimes, the supporting actor steals the scene.

The Vietnamese pigeon (VNĐ625,000) deserves more attention. Naturally sweet, tender yet firm, it has a depth of flavour that suits ageing particularly well. After 25 days of dry ageing, Vien’s version is beautifully concentrated. The coffee sauce is deep enough to complement the bird without masking it, though I would have liked the mắc khén mountain pepper to speak a little louder for a stronger Vietnamese signature.

Phở essence tartare.

The standout among the mains was the charred pineapple lamb (VNĐ755,000). I am not usually fond of fermented soybean sauces when their aroma becomes too assertive, but Vien handles it with impressive restraint.

Glossy and silky, the sauce balances sweet and savoury notes with a remarkably gentle fermented aroma. With charred pineapple and lamb, it brings richness, sweetness and umami together without letting any one element dominate – Vietnamese character, refined rather than disguised.

What stayed with me most was Vien’s ability to make Vietnamese flavours feel recognisable without making them predictable. From phở and mắc khén to fermented soybeans, familiar ingredients are given new contexts without losing their identity.

Vien leaves you with the feeling that Vietnamese cuisine still has plenty of room to surprise, even for those who think they already know its flavours well.

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Vien Dining

Address: 3 Bà Triệu Alley, Hai Bà Trưng Ward, Hà Nội

Price: VNĐ95,000–770,000

Comment: Modern, fusion, comforting, tranquil, creative