A scene at the seminar to introduce French cheese culture to Vietnamese gourmets. —VNS Photo Tố Như

HÀ NỘI — A seminar celebrating French cheese culture brought the richness of flavours, textures and craftsmanship to Hà Nội. The event, organised by the Centre National Interprofessionnel de l'Économie Laitière (CNIEL) with support from the European Union, forms part of a wider series promoting French cuisine in Việt Nam.

CNIEL represents the entire French dairy value chain, from farmers and producers to distributors and researchers. Supported by the EU, it regularly runs international programmes that reinforce France’s status as the 'cradle of cheese in the world,' boasting a tradition that spans thousands of years.

French cheese expert François Robin explained that three core elements are essential to crafting delicious cheese: quality milk, the cheesemaker’s skill and the maturation process. He likened cheese-making to baking a cake, where similar recipes require finesse and experience to succeed.

"Sometimes you can follow the recipe correctly, but the result still doesn't meet expectations. Making cheese is easy, but creating delicious cheese is what’s truly difficult," said Robin.

According to Robin, the quality of the milk largely determines the flavour. To produce good milk, farmers need to carefully care for their cattle, feed them naturally, respect their growth habits and protect the environment.

France has a tradition of small-scale farming, with an average of about 60 cows per farm, managed through multiple generations of families. Notably, 90 per cent of dairy cows are raised on pastures for at least six months of the year, with dry hay provided only in winter. It is the dedication and commitment of the farmers that creates high-quality milk, the foundation for excellent cheese.

He revealed that French farmers on many small farms in mountainous regions milk the cows and make cheese using traditional methods. The basic process involves coagulating the milk with lactic culture, cutting it into small pieces, pressing it into moulds and maturing it in caves under strict temperature and humidity conditions. During this time, natural microorganisms and moulds develop, creating the characteristic flavours, textures and rinds. Some cheeses are completely covered with white mould that is safe to eat, while blue cheese has a unique flavour thanks to the technique of piercing the cheese to allow air in and promote mould growth.

“A good cheese must be a living cheese,” he said.

Some kinds of French cheese are introduced at the seminar. VNS Photo Tố Như

The cheese expert said France currently has 3,423 officially recognised types of cheese listed on the CNIEL website. When considering variations and methods of preparation, this number could rise to 5,000. Some cheeses are as small as the palm of a hand, while others can weigh over 120kg. Each region boasts its own unique recipes, reflecting the traditions and creativity of local artisans.

Among these, blue cheese stands out as a distinctive variety, characterised by its green mould veins. To encourage mould growth, craftsmen use a large needle to pierce the cheese, allowing oxygen to enter the cavities – this special technique contributes to its unique flavour.

According to Asia-Pacific Regional Director of CNIEL Emilie Martin all dairy products in France are tested daily to ensure absolute safety.

“We collaborate towards a common goal of quality and consumer reassurance. Promotional activities, such as the seminar in Việt Nam, are not aimed at promoting a specific brand but rather at spreading the culture of French cheese to our international friends,” she said.

When cheese is imported into Việt Nam, a food safety certificate is a mandatory requirement, she added. This certificate details the origin of the milk, the supplying farm as well as the transportation and processing methods.

Importers need to pay attention to this information to assess reliability. All cheese exported from France complies with European Union food safety regulations; however, both parties still need to engage further on labelling, storage and specific certification standards to align with the Vietnamese market.

Visitors to the event could try combining French cheese with local ingredients to explore harmonious flavour pairings. It concluded on September 25 with a buffet showcasing a variety of renowned local delicacies, providing a rich and refined experience. — VNS