Thanh Hà

QUẢNG NINH — Quảng Ninh Province may be famed for squid cake or chả mực but it also has another culinary gem – stone sea crab noodle soup. Known locally as bún cù kỳ, the dish is a must-try for visitors, according to Hoàng Cẩm Tú from Hà Nội.

“Unlike field crab noodle soup, or bún riêu cua đồng cooked by Hanoians, bún cù kỳ has its own distinctive taste and rich flavour. What impressed me most was the broth, with its gentle sourness from tomato and fermented grains, a light sweetness from ground cù kỳ and the richness of its roe,” said Tú, who recently toured the province.

Stone sea crab noodle soup, one of must-try dishes in Quảng Ninh Province. — Photo vinwonders.com

The dish is best enjoyed with fermented bamboo and fresh herbs, dipped in chilli mixed with lemon juice and fish sauce, she said.

A local seller named Nguyễn Thanh Thủy explained that in the past locals only grilled or steamed the crab, but fishing villagers later created this sea crab noodle soup.

“However, no one knows exactly when the dish came into being,” Thủy said.

Asked how to cook the standard bún cù kỳ, Thủy said ingredients include fresh crab, which should be carefully cleaned with its claws, shell and body separated.

The body is then ground to cook the broth, while the claws are well steamed and the shell removed to take the meat. The crab roe is also separated and fried with dried purple onion and spices.

The crab's claws are among most savory topping of the noodle soup. — Photo vinwonders.com

Apart from the ground crab body, other ingredients used to make the broth include dried shrimp and dried squid. The dish is then topped with fried tofu, taro stem, fresh onion and herbs, Thủy said.

She explained that other delicacies made from the crab include steamed crab, grilled crab, crab cooked with tamarind sauce, fried with vermicelli or even made into a floss for children.

Among these, grilled crab is a particular favourite with food lovers. It must be thoroughly cleaned before being steamed for 10 minutes and then grilled over charcoal until it is lightly scorched, releasing a rich, aromatic fragrance. According to Thủy, it is especially enjoyable in the autumn months, which are now approaching.

She added that crab with tamarind sauce is also popular with diners as it combines the natural sweetness of crab meat with the tangy richness of tamarind juice, chilli, sugar and other ingredients to create an unforgettable flavour.

Fried stone sea crab claws sauced with tamarind juice is among lovely dishes by locals and foreign dinners. — Photo vdstravel.vn

The dish is often enjoyed with crunchy bread, Thủy said.

According to her, cù kỳ belongs to the same family as other sea crabs, but its claws are proportionally larger than its body. It has a brown shell and striking green eyes.

The waters of Quảng Ninh are home to two varieties of cù kỳ – black and red. Locals believe the red variety has more savoury meat than the black.

The season runs from March to August, with prices ranging from VNĐ190,000 to 250,000 per kilo, rising to VNĐ300,000 or more towards the end of the season, Thủy told Việt Nam News and Law.

Steamed stone sea crab dipped in a mixed sauce of lemon, fish sauce, chili and pepper would make your mouth watering. — Photo vba.com.vn

“Apart from enjoying the dish on the spot, most visitors to Quảng Ninh buy the crab to take home despite its high price,” Thủy said.

This species lives in the warm seawaters of Quảng Ninh, the port city of Hải Phòng and the south central coastal province of Khánh Hòa. However, researchers note that cù kỳ from Quảng Ninh’s waters is considered to have the highest nutritional content and economic value compared with those found elsewhere. — VNS