Two palanquins symbolising the guardian deities, weighing nearly 300kg, were carried from the communal house along both banks of the dyke to the Red River. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

By Bảo Long

HÀ NỘI — Nestled along the fertile banks of the Red River in Hà Nội, Phú Xá village bursts into life each year on the tenth day of the second lunar month with the Mộc Dục festival. This unique ritual, centered on bathing the statues of the village’s guardian deities, embodies the community’s hopes for favourable weather, bountiful harvests and peaceful lives.

The festival begins with a solemn procession. Two palanquins, draped in incense and flowers and weighing nearly 300 kilogrammes, are hoisted aloft by young men whose strong shoulders reflect the village’s unity. Laden with sacred offerings, the procession moves from the communal house to the Red River’s edge.

"I’ve carried the palanquin every year since I was 18—now I’m 47", said Mai Văn Hoàng. "Each of us bears over 40 kilogrammes. My body aches afterward, but it’s a duty I cherish."

More than just a ceremony, Mộc Dục is a spiritual bridge between Phú Xá’s people and their divine protectors.

The boat pauses midstream on the Red River, bathed in the soft glow of morning sunlight and swept by a brisk wind. Villagers believe the water here is the purest, and the flow is a symbol of cleansing and renewal.

Amid the rhythmic thrum of drums and the resonant clang of gongs, the chief officiant stands in quiet reverence, offering prayers to the river deity. Nearby, villagers dip their ladles with care, filling the urn with water—each scoop a gesture of devotion and gratitude to the forces that sustain their land.

Phú Xá is famed for its peach and kumquat orchards, but nature has recently tested the village. "Typhoon Yagi battered us last year, ruining crops and farms", said Nguyễn Văn Hùng, the festival’s chief officiant. "This year, our prayers for good weather and thriving harvests are even more heartfelt."

The floods also left a mark on the ceremony itself. "Normally, peach branches adorn the communal house" explained Mai Văn Liên, an organising committee member. "This year, there were none. Our land has long supported peaches and, across the river, mulberry for silkworms. Our ancestors drew water here to honour the deities and pray for safe journeys along the riverbank."

At the communal house, the ritual reaches its sacred peak. The urn is unsealed, and water is carefully poured over the statues of the two guardian deities—unmarried figures revered for generations. Mai Văn Lương stands watch, ensuring privacy. "Only those chosen can bathe them," he said. "No one else may look. It’s a tradition we’ve kept alive forever."

Once the statues of the guardian deities have been bathed, the remaining water is placed in front of the communal house, where villagers wash their hands in preparation for the offering ceremony. The air grows thick with the scent of burning incense as rituals unfold in solemn succession. Wine is poured, prayers are whispered and homage is paid to the divine protectors. Each step follows the time-honoured traditions upheld for generations, a quiet testament to the village’s unwavering devotion.

In a world of rapid change, Mộc Dục remains a vital link to Phú Xá’s past. Beyond its spiritual weight, the festival showcases the village’s resilience. This year, as the community rebuilds after the disaster, it’s a poignant reminder of their enduring faith and collective spirit—qualities nurtured over time by the ever-shifting silt along the Red River’s banks. -- VNS

The elderly women in colourful and splendid ceremonial attire followed the procession. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

A small altar was placed on a boat, which was sent out to the middle of the Red River to get water to bathe the two guardian deities. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

Amid the sound of drums, gongs and the wind blowing on the Red River, the villagers of Phú Xá connect with each other both spiritually and emotionally. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

The village youth were also included and joined the ritual. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

The officiant, Nguyễn Văn Hùng, reverently raised the bronze ladles selected for fetching water from the river. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

The water, taken from mid-stream, considered most pristine and pure, was meticulously poured into the urn. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

The villagers, one by one, dipped their ladles once or twice in hopes of a peaceful and prosperous year. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

The water urn was subsequently sealed tightly, fastened to a pair of wooden frames and returned to shore. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

Chaste maidens were selected as water bearers to guarantee the ritual's sanctity. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

At the communal house, the ceramic urn was unsealed to retrieve the water for the ablution of the guardian detities. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

Mai Văn Lương was selected to stand watch, ensuring no one entered while the guardian detities were being bathed. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

More than just a ceremony, Mộc Dục is a spiritual bridge between Phú Xá’s people and their divine protectors. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

The remaining water was used for the elders to wash their hands before performing the ritual. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

The rhythmic beating of drums and the clanging of gongs persisted, maintaining the pace for the orderly progression of the ritual. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

Alcohol was poured into the offering cups to be presented as a sacrifice to the two guardian deities. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

Mai Văn Hưng presented the ritual offerings and intoned the invocation. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

Incense, tapers, floral offerings, and libations were sequentially carried into the village communual house. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

Those involved in the ritual all showed a deep sense of solemnity, hoping for a new year with good weather and peace to come to the people living here. — VNS Photo Bảo Long

More than a ceremony, Mộc Dục is a spiritual bridge between Phú Xá’s people and their traditions. — VNS Photo Bảo Long