By Alex Reeves - @afreeves23

The best thing since sliced bread? Whatever goes between it. Subs, hoagies, sarnies, butties, whatever you want to call them. There are very few things in life that are as simple, yet as satisfying, as the humble sandwich. Bread and fillings. Good on the go, or to sit and savour. The ultimate food of convenience, fit for any time, any day. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Morning, noon, night.

I am not ashamed to admit that I have crossed borders in pursuit of sandwiches. Such was my desire to try the elusive Portuguese 'Francescinha', I booked a trip to Macau, which is a damn sight closer than Porto, despite having no interest in gambling, almost entirely to satisfy my craving. I travelled for the Francesinha and stayed for the pork chop buns – worth every penny.

Cubano: The bread for this classic sandwich is baked in house for added authenticity. Photos courtesy of @afreeves23

Anyway, enough of my sandwich judging credentials. Back to Việt Nam, whereas for so many of us, I have a prolonged romance with the ever faithful 'bánh mì', love at first bite. When living here, they are in a league of their own. But this is about the 'other' sandwiches. The ones for our wandering eyes. With all the naughty things our hearts truly desire; mortadella, provolone, aioli. Don't lie, you've fantasised about them too.

Originally, this article was intended to be a bit of a wind-up from Hà Nội. Poking a little fun at two southern rivals, who at times allowed some beef to escape their deli counters and end up online. What was once going to be a dramatic tale of alleged espionage and proxy wars, an arms race that weaponised 'subs' in an unfamiliar way, is now a simple, friendly nod, espousing the virtues of Hồ Chí Minh City's sandwich offerings.

To start – Sandwich by Dulce

Where this piece began. I wouldn’t be typing this if not for Garret Nelson expanding beyond sweeter bakery operations into sandwiches. The alluring cross sections of the ever-growing Dulce menu spread across my screen, like nothing I could get my hands on here in Hà Nội. His sharing of the ever more ambitious orders that customers dreamed could be crafted together, wrapped in those iconic tiger bread rolls.

Glowing: Hidden down a quaint District 3 alley is the irresistible Dulce.

Suddenly my sandwich orders at home seemed less satisfying in the knowledge that these heavily laden delights were only a flight away. Dropping in on my next visit to HCM City, I opted first for the 'Babbo' and felt the disappointment of a hundred sad sandwiches melt away as the creamy burrata, and pistachio pesto oozed over generously stacked slices of mortadella, finished with that familiar snap of arugula, cutting through the decadence.

The bread here, as with all great sandwich shops, is baked in house, and you can tell. The option, a soft, herby, fluffy focaccia through which your teeth will glide, allows the fillings to do most of the talking. Otherwise, the aforementioned tiger bread, a rarity here to my knowledge, is a firmer, no-nonsense option that adds a toasted, nutty flavour to the equation.

I would also go out to bat for both 'The Italian' and 'Deviled Egg' options. The former with the classic trio of salty cold cut meats, not skipping on that delightful coppa. Buttery smooth provolone, balanced against salad, aioli, and oregano vinaigrette. The latter with a creamy egg salad, that coats your taste buds before you’re met with the slightest kick from the chilli crisp, aficionados will find much to love.

Babbo: A Dulce signature with Mortadella, burrata, and arugula; the holy trinity.

The vibe at Dulce is a calm one, it feels like the kind of spot you could pitch up for a coffee date with a friend or throw on your headphones and get stuck into some work. It has soft, light woods and lighting as warm as the ever-attentive staff. While Garret was the one who talked me through the project, his skills put to use refining recipes and cultivating a passionate fanbase to create hype around their product, he was insistent that his wife, Nguyễn Minh Thư, was the true story to be told.

Having received amazing feedback from friends, she took her personal passion for baking to the next level. Their cookies and burnt Basque cheesecake amongst other indulgent delights are testament to the belief that hobbies and passions can provide a livelihood for us, given the right support and opportunities. Turning out the tastiest baked goods in a metropolis is no mean feat.

Sandwiches: 130k - 225k ($5-9) Refreshments: 40k - 110k ($1.50 - $4.50)

Next up – Big Boss Bistro

When falling head first into the picnic basket of HCM City sandwich lore, I discovered Big Boss Bistro, regularly commended online for having the best subs in town. A taste of home for those missing real American style sandwiches. Little did I know, headed by none other than James Jolokia, proprietor of local favourite Brick & Barrel, which has recently relocated and will be opening its new doors, potentially as soon as this very weekend.

Big Boss isn’t styled as a cafe, there’s no dessert counter with countless goodies to consider, there’s sandwiches, big sandwiches, unwrapped and laid bare to appreciate in all their glory, no cross sections required. Forget light woods and bright lights, this has a dark, rustic, almost industrial aesthetic, with low-glowing Edison bulbs and lamps. And they serve beer. A healthy selection of the craft variety.

Open sub: Big Boss opts for an open sandwich, showcasing the generous fillings.

The joy of a good sandwich is something which can most closely be compared to that of a fresh, cold beverage. Both are served here, making it perfect for an after work jar with friends, or a moment of peace and contemplation. Sandwich in one hand, beer in the other. Life rarely affords many greater small victories than this. If I ever made the move down south, I could see myself sitting here, thumbing through a book, satisfied.

First port of call here; ‘Italian Sub’. The quintessential sandwich for any self respecting purveyor of such goods. Here it takes form as a classic sub, but open rather than closed. Four meats, pepperoni, ham, mortadella, capicola. Classic salad with mayo and of course, more creamy provolone with a balsamic vinaigrette on a hoagie roll. The careful balance of flavour, fat, and saltiness is achieved. It’s a home run.

Why choose?: Visit with friends and share as many sandwiches as you can.

I’m also drawn to The Cubano. Staying true enough to the sandwich's original recipe, it has juicy, roasted pork and a more delicate ham to fill it out alongside soft Swiss cheese, tangy pickles and mustard upon Cuban bread, baked just for this sandwich. The sandwiches here come warmer than most, letting the cheese ooze over the other fillings, elevating them further in flavour. Like a great conversation, each bite builds on the last, keeping you coming back for more.

At Big Boss, it feels like they saw me coming, only a week or so before my latest visit, they shared an off menu sandwich, available all year round on request, known as ‘The Bourdain’. It’s likely many ‘foodies’ familiar with the late Chef will be aware of this. Inspired by the gargantuan mortadella laden supremos of São Paulo, this sandwich from his 2016 cookbook, Appetites. Grilled mortadella, melted provolone, Dijon mustard, and mayo served on a house-made Kaiser roll. This, this is all I need.

Sandwiches: 140k - 250k ($5-10) Refreshments: 40k - 110k ($1.50 - $4.50)

The verdict

In the knowledge of some crossed words online between the Big Boss himself and our previously mentioned sandwich house proprietor, in my mind this piece wrote itself, however, I couldn’t have been more wrong. While they may compete in the delivery market and the key mechanisms of quality ingredients with good service are central to both ventures, the styles are entirely distinct.

The Bourdain: The favourite sandwich of the beloved late Chef and friend of Việt Nam

Both spots will be appealing to sandwich lovers, and neither will disappoint. However, they are different beasts, with different identities, aimed at people who want different things while they eat. Yet the sandwiches at both are so perfectly balanced, they’re like diplomacy on a plate.

A great sandwich is more than just food, it transcends a simple meal, it is a religious experience and so it occurs to me that this food is sacred and therefore, in good conscience, I cannot take sides. With that in mind fellow pilgrims, break bread at both and make sandwiches, not war. VNS

Dulce

Address: 382/15 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai Street, Ward 5, District 3

Tel: 0903 305 993

Opening hour: 11am - 8pm, closed Mondays

Big Boss

Address: 45 Trần Hưng Đạo Street, Thái Bình Ward, District 1

Tel: 0359 659 765

Opening hour: 9am - 11pm, all week

Top tip: For hungry Hanoians who can’t make the trip, try La Bottega for the best sarnies in the north!