By Carlos Ottery

It borders on heresy, really, the idea that truly memorable Thai food could come from anywhere other than a back-alley street stall, a smoky little Isaan shack with plastic stools or a beachside hut fringed with palms and motorbikes.

Hello Summer Set.

The great canon of Thai cuisine, after all, is often romanticised as the domain of woks over open flames, blistering spices and rickety tables with condensed-milk canisters holding cutlery.

So imagine the surprise when one of the most satisfying Thai meals I’ve had in years arrived not in Chiang Mai or Krabi, but in unassuming Xuân La, an unfashionable residential pocket of Hà Nội not exactly known as a culinary hotspot.

The restaurant? A branch of Chang – Modern Thai Cuisine, a mid-tier chain with three locations in the capital and more than half a dozen in HCM City. From the outside, it’s nothing special, all clean signage, bright lighting and a clutter of motorbikes at the door. Inside though, the food is the real deal: fresh, balanced, unapologetically spicy and delivered with a quiet confidence that belies the chain format.

My most recent visit was with family, and we started with a dish clearly designed for visual punch and sharing ease, the Hello Summer Set (VNĐ119,000 or US$4.60). A tray of vibrant little compartments, it offered a cheerful, snackable cross-section of Thai bites: crisp, tangy, sweet and salty in turn.

It wasn’t a riot of complex flavours, but the kid was charmed, and the breezy tropical theme set the tone for the meal. Sometimes, simple works.

Seafood tom yam.

Things really kicked off with the 'Seafood tom yam' (VNĐ159,000), served piping hot and steaming with lemongrass, galangal and just the right amount of chilli heat. The broth was everything it should be, tangy, aromatic and with that signature slap of citrus and heat that clears the sinuses and resets the soul. The seafood was generous and fresh, without a hint of rubberiness. A proper rendition.

Next, we opted for the 'Hhot spicy pork bone soup' (VNĐ179,000), flagged as one of their signature dishes. A massive bowl arrived filled with hefty bones, tender meat and a broth that delivered a satisfying slow burn. It was the kind of dish that makes conversation pause, a punch of umami, chili and depth that stays with you. It’s worth the trip for this one alone.

Steamed squid with lemon.

The supporting cast also tingled our taste buds. We tried the 'Thai-style green mussels' (VNĐ139,000), nicely briny and subtly fragrant, and the 'Steamed squid with lemon' (VNĐ149,000), which brought a brightness that cut through the meal’s richness.

The 'Spicy tamarind soft-boiled eggs' (VNĐ99,000), while a little sweet and jammy, offered a curious break in pace. The 'Classic mixed vegetables' (VNĐ79,000) proved a refreshingly crisp side, avoiding the sogginess that often plagues such dishes.

For dessert, the 'Mango sticky rice with coconut cream' (VNĐ109,000) was a tour de force. Too often, this dish is overly sweet or one-note. Here, it was a masterclass in balance, the ripe mango was lush and bright, the sticky rice perfectly chewy and the coconut ice cream ethereal. It’s rare for a dessert to steal the show, but this one did.

Mango sticky rice with coconut cream.

To drink, Chang offers a fun range of exotic fruit concoctions served in bright, colourful jugs. Options include 'Herb and pandan leaf with chia seeds' (VNĐ89,000), 'Chamomile tea with chia seeds' (VNĐ29,000), 'Red artichoke with chia seeds' (VNĐ29,000), and 'Butterfly pea flower tea with honey' (VNĐ39,000).

They’re a touch kitsch, but wholly enjoyable, adding a splash of wild colour and refreshment. It’s all best washed down with a cold bottle (or five) of Chang or Tiger beer (VNĐ45,000), of course.

The staff did seem mildly baffled that I wanted my beer immediately while the food was still being cooked, and I had to beg and plead for it before eventually jogging upstairs and grabbing it myself. An odd little moment in an otherwise perfectly friendly and helpful service.

BRIGHT INTERIOR: The restaurant has a colourful, welcoming theme. Photos courtesy of Chang

There’s something quietly remarkable about a restaurant like this operating with such consistency across multiple branches. While some may scoff at the idea of quality Thai food coming from a chain in suburban Hà Nội, Chang manages to pull it off with flair. It may not transport you straight to the clamour of Bangkok’s sois, but it brings enough chilli, lime and bite to evoke the spirit.

Yes, yes, you might wrinkle your nose at the thought of eating Thai food at what looks like just another generic chain. But Chang – Modern Thai Cuisine is worth a shot. Is it 100 per cent authentic? Perhaps not. But spicy, fresh and piquant Thai flavours? You got it. Sometimes the plastic stool is just a state of mind. VNS

Chang – Modern Thai Cuisine

Address: Various locations in HCM City and Hà Nội, including the Xuân La branch at 118 Võ Chí Công Street, Tây Hồ District, Hà Nội

Tel: 090 219 9988

Price: Dishes from VNĐ100,000. Combo sets and family meals available.

Opening time: Open daily, 10am-10pm

Best for: Casual family meals, Thai food fans, people who believe chains can surprise.