By Thúy Hằng

Fifteen years ago, I travelled alone to Hội An with a broken heart, hoping the trip would heal me. A few days in the ancient town couldn’t take away my pain, but there were moments that brought me peace – a boat ride to the untouched Chàm Island and a dinner by a window at Mango Rooms, watching the Thu Bồn River glow under a beautiful sunset.

SMART AND SIMPLE: Tables in the river-front backyard of Mango Rooms where guests can feel the breeze from the Thu Bồn River or watch the boats drifting by. Photo courtesy of Mango Rooms

Since then, I visited the ancient town many other times but just came back to Mango Rooms recently for lunch together with a group of companions.

The restaurant seems not to have changed much since my first visit. The rustic, simple and friendly atmosphere remains, with a thatched roof made of bamboo and climbing plants surrounding it. Delicate cosmos flowers sway by the doorstep, as if welcoming guests.

FULL OF CHARM: Chef Trần Thanh Đức (aka Đức Xoài) in his kitchen. VNS Photo Thúy Hằng

When we arrived at the restaurant, we saw its owner and chef Trần Thanh Đức (aka Đức Xoài) standing at the back entrance, greeting us with his warm and big smile.

Our table was set up in the river-front backyard where we can feel the breeze from the Thu Bồn or look at the boats drifting by while sipping a glass of La Guapa Cocktail – a refreshing drink that looks very appealing, both the lemon colour and the fruity flavours.

Chef Đức, with his natural warm hospitality, enthusiastically shared the story of his life and his passion for the art of cooking. His story was so captivating that I truly believe it could be written into a book.

COCKTAIL TIME: 'La Guapa'. VNS Photo Thúy Hằng

Born on his mother’s duck farm in Sài Gòn’s outskirts, Đức grew up with 10 siblings, learning cooking and hospitality from his mother. At 16, he moved to the US, where he was fostered by a Mexican-American family in Texas.

While studying environmental engineering at Texas A&M and interning in Beaumont, he lived with an African-American family. An open, friendly, and generous person, with a passion for cooking, everywhere he went, he cooked, for his new friends, his adopted families, and for other travellers.

In 2003, during his travels in Việt Nam, Đức spent time in Hội An. Captivated by its serene rivers, rice fields, and fresh ingredients, he was inspired to open Mango Rooms a year later.

The restaurant showcased his unique culinary style, blending global techniques with local ingredients from nearby farms. Mango Rooms’ vibrant colours and one-of-a-kind dishes quickly drew attention. International travellers spread the word, and Đức cooked for many famous guests, including Gordon Ramsay, Mick Jagger and Tyra Banks.

LIGHT AND FRESH: 'Mango tiradito'. VNS Photo Thúy Hằng

On the day we visited Mango Rooms, we had no idea what would be served until the food arrived – Chef Đức chose what to delight our taste buds with.

The first course was ‘Mango tiradito’ (VNĐ260,000), made of fresh, raw fish depending on the “catch of the day”. That day, it was red snapper. Thin, almost translucent slices of fish were elegantly arranged on the plate, showcasing their freshness. The fish was bathed in a sauce featuring fish sauce – a staple in Đức’s creations. Proudly, he said that his signature fish sauce was marinated for five years.

He described the dish as ‘international’, blending techniques from Việt Nam’s gỏi cá (raw fish salad), Japanese sashimi, and South American ceviche.

The first bite of 'Mango tiradito', paired with tangy mango carpaccio, was a burst of flavours – a perfect harmony of the fish’s natural sweetness, the tanginess of lime and mango, a touch of spiciness, and the umami of fish sauce.

FROM THE SEA: 'Gamba a la Mango'.VNS Photo Thúy Hằng

The next course was ‘Gamba a la Mango’ (VNĐ260,000), a prawn dish inspired by Spanish cuisine but localised with Hội An chilli sauce and greens grown in Đức’s organic farm.

“Vegetables are essential in a Vietnamese meal, so I served this with a green salad,” he explained.

The succulent prawns were pan-seared and cooked in olive oil with garlic, Hội An chilli sauce, and Đức’s secret ingredient – fish sauce – creating a flavourful, irresistible dish that left us wanting more.

The dish is so good that I even asked Đức for the recipe. I need to learn how to make it.

DRY-AGED: 'Cocoduck' -- Chef’s Special dish. VNS Photo Thúy Hằng

The final course, a Chef’s Special, was the impressively named ‘Cocoduck’ (VNĐ800,000). Preparing this dish was a meticulous process. Đức said that the ducks are marinated with five-spice powder, pepper, and sugar, then dry-aged for a week before being smoked for three to five hours.

“We use charcoal made from coffee wood, which produces gentle smoke to give the duck meat a subtle smoky aroma without overpowering it. Grated coconut is added during smoking for a buttery scent,” Đức revealed.

The duck is served with a homemade soft tortilla made of sweet potatoes and three types of sauces: Mexican guacamole, a red sauce crafted from Hội An chilli sauce, and a black sauce made of duck jus, duck fat, and hoisin sauce.

To enjoy, place a tender slice of duck breast on the sweet potato tortilla, add a slice of mango, and a touch of each sauce. The combination is nothing short of amazing.

After this incredible lunch, I know I’ve found the perfect spot to return to whenever I’m in Hội An. For me, it’s the best restaurant in the town. VNS

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Mango Rooms

Address: 37 Phan Bội Châu Street, Hội An City

Hotline: 070 265 5969

Comment: Perfect fusion cuisine, an incredible chef and owner, and a tranquil riverfront ambience.