RETRO SHOPFRONT: Bé Nhỡ adds to the city's list of assorted 'bún thang' noodle soupstores. — VNS Photos Mỹ Hà

By Mỹ Hà

Nestled in a neighbourhood known for great food at more reasonable prices than the Old Quarter of Hà Nội, the streets south of Hoàn Kiếm Lake in Hai Bà Trưng District hide some much sought-after local eateries.

The area around Bùi Thị Xuân, Triệu Việt Vương and Mai Hắc Đế streets boasts an array of excellent dining spots catering to office workers from the nearby Vincom City Towers on Bà Triệu Street.

With small boutiques, cafés, and bakeries adding to its charm, this area has a distinctive character—lively yet not overcrowded.

Having seen video clips online recommending Hà Nội delicacy bún thang at Bé Nhỡ, we put it on our must-try list.

APPETISER: Spicy sour-sweet chicken feet and mango salad is a tasty treat.

The restaurant’s name, Bé Nhỡ, is not typically Hanoian. In Vietnamese, bé means small or little and is commonly used as a term of endearment for children. In the south, it can also be used affectionately for a romantic partner, but in the north, the word remains mostly within family circles and is rarely seen on shop signs.

As we approached Bé Nhỡ, we had a feeling that the restaurant had southern influences. In central and southern Vietnam, such names are more common, and the style of dining differs from that of the north. The idea of trying a Hà Nội specialty in a southern-style restaurant felt slightly off, but we decided to step out of our comfort zone and give it a try.

It is interesting that despite the large number of Hanoians who moved south to Sài Gòn (now HCM City) in 1954, bún thang never gained the same popularity as other northern dishes like phở. Perhaps it was considered more of a home-cooked specialty, enjoyed mainly during Tết Lunar New Year festival, rather than a dish fit for widespread commercial sale.

TOOTHSOME SNACK: Chicken hearts and eggs stir-fried are a popular starter.

Among the may northerners who settled in Sài Gòn in 1954 was writer- journalist Vũ Bằng. His book Thương nhớ mười hai (Longing for the Twelve Months), published in 1972, captures his deep nostalgia for Hà Nội, with poetic descriptions of the city's changing seasons.

In one passage, he wrote: "Bún thang must be served piping hot. At its base is a bed of fresh, thin rice noodles, quickly blanched in boiling water. Layered on top are shredded chicken breast, lean pork paste, and finely julienned egg, along with tender chopped pork ribs. At the centre sits half a salted duck egg, with slivers of fragrant knotweed leaves scattered throughout. The combination of bold colours creates a cubist-like composition—visually striking, joyful, and elegant all at once."

cLOCAL CLASSIC: They say 'bún thang' is "the bowl you must try at Bé Nhỡ."

The origins of the name bún thang have long been debated. Thang is short for thang thuốc, which refers to a traditional herbal medicine prescription in Chinese-Vietnamese culture—meticulously measured and blended for balance. The dish’s multiple ingredients, carefully portioned, may have drawn comparisons to such a formula.

In recent years, historical cookbooks from the 1920s and 1930s, now digitised by the French National Library, have shed light on bún thang’s legacy. Traditionally, it was a dish reserved for affluent Hà Nội families, its rich combination of ingredients making it a luxury few could afford. But times have changed, and this so-called "bourgeois dish" is now widely popularised. What was once a rare treat is now an everyday pleasure.

At Bé Nhỡ, a bowl of bún thang costs VNĐ100,000—double the price of more traditional spots. However, if you're looking for a stylish setting and well-presented food, this might be the place for you.

As with all food, taste is subjective. Whether you prefer your bún thang with fragrant mushrooms or without, with pungent shrimp paste or not, is entirely personal. No one should dictate how you enjoy your meal.

For newcomers to Hà Nội, a bowl of bún thang is a heartwarming introduction to the city’s culinary traditions—its delicate yet flavourful chicken broth offering a taste of home, no matter where you’re from. VNS

Bé Nhỡ Restaurant

115 Triệu Việt Vương St, Hai Bà Trưng Dist, Hà Nội

Tel: 08-4307-0988

Comment: nice blend of north, south Vietnamese food

Price: VNĐ100,000-250,000/each