SCENIC: Hải Đăng Floating Restaurant offers authentic ethnic Mường dishes and a stunning view of nature. — VNS Photos Đoàn Tùng

By Lương Thu Hương

The powerful Đà River in the northern province of Hòa Bình flows into a vast hydroelectric reservoir, creating an ideal habitat for fishes and shrimp. Living in a natural environment and feeding on plankton drifting in the water, the fish in the Đà are particularly delicious and renowned among foodies.

Tasting fish dishes is a must-try experience for any visitor to the Đà. During my recent trip to Hòa Bình, I had the chance to enjoy delectable dishes at Hải Đăng Restaurant based on a ship at anchor off the bank of the Hòa Bình hydroelectric reservoir.

As the restaurant floats on crystal-clear water and is surrounded by the serene beauty of the lake, it offers not just a meal, but a delightful culinary experience enriched by stunning views and a tranquil atmosphere.

Visitors are advised to reserve in advance to avoid the possibility of the restaurant being fully booked upon arrival. To reach the restaurant, you can choose between two departure points: Bích Hạ Port or 3 Cấp Port.

A motorboat from the restaurant can pick you up, or you can take any nearby service motorboat to reach the restaurant. Though the voyage from either port to the restaurant is short, it offers a wonderful experience as you glide over the cool blue waters, immersing yourself in the fresh air on Hòa Bình Lake.

MUST TRY: Grilled red tilapia, served with rice noodles and fresh herbs, along with sliced carrots and pineapple.

Hải Đăng Floating Restaurant is a complex that includes a two-storey ship, a cage fish farm, and bungalows for overnight tourists.

The main ingredient for the dishes served there—fish—is caught and cooked on the spot to ensure freshness.

“Our restaurant not only offers delicious dishes but also embodies a part of the culture and traditions of the ethnic Mường people in Hòa Bình Province. Our team of chefs are locals who have a deep understanding of each ingredient and every step of the cooking process, ensuring that traditional flavours are preserved in every meal,” said the restaurant owner, Nguyễn Thị Bảy.

Following her recommendation, we ordered grilled red tilapia, a signature dish of the Đà River and Hải Đăng Restaurant.

“There are two marinating methods for preparing grilled fish in the restaurant, each offering a unique flavour based on customer preferences. The marinade with galangal is more favoured than the one using dổi seeds,” said Dũng, one of the chefs.

“Our grilled fish is VietGAP-certified, sourced from our fish farm in the Đà River. Diners can savour the natural rich flavour of the river fish, making for a delicious experience.”

The grilled red tilapia is served with rice noodles, fresh herbs such as mint, basil, and cilantro, along with sliced carrots and pineapple. All the ingredients are wrapped in rice paper, similar to fresh spring rolls, and enjoyed with a chili-onion fish sauce.

As a fan of roll dishes, this was definitely one of my favourites, as it offered a delightful combination of flavours and textures. The tender, succulent fish, grilled to perfection, paired beautifully with the crunchy vegetables and aromatic herbs, creating a refreshing balance. Each bite burst with freshness, and the dipping sauce added a spicy kick that enhanced the overall experience.

SOUP-ER: 'Canh cá măng chua' (black carp and sour bamboo shoot soup).

Another indispensable ingredient in Mường cuisine, besides fish, is bamboo shoots. These are harvested from the forest, peeled, sliced thinly, and soaked in saltwater to ferment, preserving their crispness. This tangy bamboo shoot dish is a staple in Mường cuisine, often featured in everyday meals.

When cooked with black carp, the distinctive mild sourness and spiciness of the fermented bamboo shoots not only mask the fishy taste but also penetrate the flesh of the fish, enhancing the overall flavour of the soup. The soup can be eaten with rice vermicelli or plain rice.

The final fish dish of our meal was fried stream fish. The stream fish in Hòa Bình are about the size of two fingers, yet they have fresh savoury taste. The best way to prepare stream fish is to fry it until crispy with lá lốt, or lolot leaves, commonly found in home gardens. The fish bones are soft, allowing them to be chewed easily.

The secret to this dish lies in the dipping sauce. While garlic chili fish sauce or salt and pepper with lime juice are good options, in Hòa Bình, the fish is often served with roasted dổi spicy seeds or fish sauce mixed with grilled green chili.

In addition to fish, Mường cuisine is renowned for its free-range pigs that forage for food on their own. Their meat is fragrant and delicious. To conclude our meal, we decided to try grilled pork.

“Grilled Mường pig is a delicate combination of quality ingredients and skilled preparation. To create a grilled pork feast, the locals typically select high-quality pigs, ensuring the meat is tender and savoury. The meat is then cut into bite-sized pieces and marinated with a unique blend of spices that impart a distinctive and unmistakable flavour,” said Dũng.

The pork is seasoned with typical spices from the northwest, such as mắc khén and hạt dổi, along with other seasonings. This results in a rich, delicious, and unforgettable flavour that makes it one of the best-selling dishes at the restaurant.

“We want our customers not only to taste delicious food, but also to feel the love and appreciation of the Mường people for their land and the natural beauty of Hòa Bình in general,” Dũng added.

My friends and I had a wonderful time savouring the local specialities and enjoying the natural beauty surrounding us at the floating restaurant. The combination of delicious cuisine, stunning views, and excellent service makes it a must-visit destination for any visitor to Hòa Bình Lake. VNS

Hải Đăng Restaurant

Address: Tổ Tháu, Thái Bình Ward, Hòa Bình City, Hòa Bình Province

Tel: 0942 767 999

Comment: Authentic Mường cuisine, fresh ingredients, great view.