By Alex Reeves (@afreeves23)

Walking into Hanoi Cider House, I’m met by the ever exuberant and always curious Jess waiting to welcome guests, all too keen to inform me that it’s Cider House’s birthday, and that I have the agelessly exciting opportunity of spinning a wheel to win a prize!

It’s tough to tell who is more delighted as the needle lands firmly in a section indicating I’m to receive a free beer for my efforts. Although, I suspect any of the prizes would have been met with the same infectious enthusiasm – that of a kid who’s lovingly being allowed to spend a little time with the grown-ups.

Perfect for one: The 1/4 chicken is a perfect sized portion of chicken for a solo dinner, served here with veg skewers. VNS Photos Alex Reeves

Mum, Hao – joint proprietor and wife of the more commonly spotted Guy Dickson, aka Dad, is also floating around chatting to regulars who have come out to celebrate with them. They’re visible owners, always happy to chat with customers, something that adds warmth to the large space the eatery occupies. From the soft play downstairs to their collective presence upstairs, it’s a family affair just like the environment they’ve built here since opening in November 2019.

Industrial vibes: The style of the taproom wouldn’t be out of place in UK cities such as Manchester or Leeds.

In the burning summer of 2016, Guy, like many craft enthusiasts at the time, was experimenting with his own batches of home-brewed beer to combat the heat. However, these brews weren’t quite to Hao’s taste. Necessity being the mother of invention, Guy took a sweeter approach by adding aromatic hops to a classic British-style cider, unknowingly changing the trajectory of their lives as the result grew into what we now know as Hanoi Cider Co.

Ten Taps: Craft enthusiasts won’t be disappointed at the broad range of beer and ciders available to them.

Never one to rest on their laurels, next came the ambitious Cider House. Rather than being put off by the challenge of opening their taproom in a big space, this was a motivator for Guy. Instead of a cliché answer (I’m told smiles on faces is the absolute minimum to expect), when I ask what he loves and enjoys about the journey of Hanoi Cider, proving people wrong and seeing long cultivated and hard-worked ideas flourish are refreshing answers that undoubtedly tie into the reason they’re celebrating a 5th anniversary.

For one pretty large room upstairs with over 10 different taps, they’ve managed to combine comfortable corners of privacy, an open dining area, ample balcony space, and my favourite – bar side. Why? Those behind it. Anecdotally, trusted confidant and manager Cường was actually the first person to serve me a beer in Việt Nam, over seven years ago. As fate would have it, I still get the pleasure of his company, but more often than not these days, he’s serving up cocktails, and damn good ones for that matter, another eyebrow-raiser for the craft community, shrugged off with apparent ease.

Don’t skip the sides: Creamy Mac and Cheese is one of a whole array of small dishes which come alongside the mains.

This is the house that cider built and a place where the only thing coming home to roost is flavour. There’s a good reason that Hà Nội and I suspect Việt Nam’s largest rooster mural takes pride of place on the taproom wall (consider this an official petition for a naming competition). Much to the misplaced joy of any chicken that might happen upon HCH, their future will only be as part of a special kind of worship, that of satisfying the masses, just as a ‘cheeky Nando’s’ shaped gap in the market did in shaping the original menu.

Whole or half chicken on the bone - juicy thighs, tender breast, wicked wings – all brined in the house's mango cider with a combination of spices giving a distinct taste while maintaining moisture throughout the slow-bake to come (VNĐ180,000 – 575,000). After chargrilling adds that slight smokiness, an array of sauces enter the fray. Peri-Peri, the obvious choice, is actually spicy as it was intended. Other individual sauces like Harissa and Jamaican Jerk offer distinct heat level and for the more spice-sensitive, Lemon and herb or Tzatziki burst with flavour as a unique lime pickle mayo offers a tangy alternative.

Best of buns: The buns at Cider House maintain structural integrity against heavy fillings.

Chicken undoubtedly still takes pride of place on the menu, but things have gone up a gear since 2019. The 24 hour slow-cooked ribs, whether sauce-on or off – opt for classic house BBQ or the Carolina Gold Mustard alternative – are so tender that the meat literally falls off the bones. Pound for pound, these are the best in Hà Nội, and I’m yet to find others that really come close (VNĐ340,000 – 585,000). Come hungry or come back, chicken or pork is not a choice easily made here.

There is, of course, an array of burgers. Double-smash with thick-cut tamarind-cured bacon (VNĐ230,000). Lamb, too rarely found in Hà Nội, is a welcome addition to the menu in both the succulent lamb smash option and their kebab skewers, both adorned with harissa, tzatziki, mint and feta for a Mediterranean twist (VNĐ295,000). Steak will not disappoint, and Sunday roast or fish and chips will leave homesick Brits with much to love. Everything is cooked with intention and is catered to the varied tastes of larger groups.

Off the bone: The tender meat on the house ribs slides straight off after 24 hours of slow cooking.

When I think about how to describe Cider House, I think of the phrase ‘greater than the sum of its parts’, but when I break those parts down, the phrase feels unfair as each part is a success in and of itself. And when many successful parts come together, they become something bigger and better, a popular and enduring venture that has made it to a milestone, one which those outside of the F&B world may not fully appreciate. This, my happy birthday to one of the most reliable food and beverage houses in the city. Cheers to this and many more to come. VNS

Hanoi Cider House

Address: 278 Nghi Tàm Road, Yên Phụ Ward, Tây Hồ District

Tel: 0398 071 672

Price: VNĐ500,000 (US$20) per head for a meal & beverage.

Dining companions: Family, friends, dates and seasonal occasions.

Top tip: If Tây Hồ is too far, visit ‘Hummingbird’ in Hai Bà Trưng, their Tiki-themed sister restaurant carries the same menu and quality of service.