Barbak: Mediterranean flavours on a skewer

October 13, 2024 - 10:00
Every meal out is more than just eating, it’s an adventure. I’m thrilled that there’s a twist to dining in Hà Nội: skewers you can actually eat with a knife and fork. Who says you can’t be classy while munching on sticks?

By Hamy Nguyễn

I grew up in Việt Nam, surrounded by bamboo meat skewers that pack a flavour punch (if you haven’t tried them yet, you’re seriously missing out). Then one day, a French friend nudged me playfully and asked “Have you ever tried European skewers?”

Before I knew it, I was on an unexpected adventure to Barbak – where skewers go international and flavours take a joyride.

Barbak uses a warm brown colour scheme as the main tone, while all the tableware is in a cool grey stainless steel tone. VNS Photos Hamy Nguyễn

Barbak is a restaurant located right across from West Lake, offering a beautiful view of the lake. Inside, the interior design is meticulously crafted. There’s a small, intriguing contrast: the restaurant uses a warm brown colour scheme as the main tone, while all the tableware is in a cool grey stainless steel tone.

Now, I can't wait to dive into the part you're all excited about: the food!

Mezze Assortment.

The Mezze Assortment (VNĐ199,000) is a delightful Mediterranean style appetiser set featuring fluffy focaccia and five irresistible dipping sauces (baba ghanoush, tzatziki, hummus, tarama, and grilled piquillo peppers romesco)

First off, the bread deserves a fan club. The sauces are not only gorgeous but also have a smooth and creamy texture that’s rich yet airy – perfect for dipping.

My top picks? The roasted eggplant, tzatziki, and hummus. But here’s the kicker: with only three slices of bread and a mountain of sauce, I was left wondering what to do with all that leftover goodness. Order more bread, and you might roll out of there.

Tuna Mosaic.

The next appetiser is Tuna Mosaic (VNĐ189,000). This isn’t just a treat for the eyes; it’s a playful flavour explosion. The jewel-like tuna slices rest on a zesty mix of horseradish and sweet mango, perfectly balanced by a slightly tangy mustard sauce that really lets the freshness of the tuna shine.

Normally, tuna isn't my thing – it’s often too lean and boring. But this tuna? Firm, meaty, and with a hint of seaweed flavour. It’s like the tuna dressed up for a VIP party – refreshing, bold, and just the right amount of sass. A dish that makes you feel fancy, but with a wink of fun.

Beef tartare.

Beef tartare (VNĐ329,000) is my ride-or-die at any restaurant where it’s on the menu. The secret? Keep it simple: fresh, lean, and high-quality beef. Barbak nails it with their beef tenderloin, but here’s the thing – I’m not a fan of minced beef in my tartare. I like my beef in cubes, so I can actually feel the texture, not mush it around.

The usual suspects make their appearance: egg yolk, capers, pickles, shallots, parsley, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, olive oil. Nothing fancy, but hey, it works. Those truffle fries were the real MVP – crispy, aromatic, and with a sprinkle of Parmesan that made me question if I should share (spoiler: I didn’t).

I’d be a fool to skip the real stars of Barbak: the skewers. These heavy-duty stainless-steel wonders could probably lift weights.

Taking the staff's advice, I dove into two meats that are must-tries: Wagyu cheek (VNĐ289,000) and Wagyu tongue (VNĐ239,000). You can choose from 12 different dipping sauces to match your meat cravings, like a sauce buffet for your taste buds. But seriously, don’t skip the blue cheese fusion sauce, it’s like a flavour fairy tale. The lemon juice in it works wonders, cutting through the richness like a superhero saving your palate from a meat coma.

Wagyu cheek.

The Wagyu cheek is slow-cooked before grilling, which makes it so tender you could practically shred it with a whisper, with the marbling retained instead of melting away during the long time cooking process.

The beef tongue offers a sweet, melt-in-your-mouth experience with each bite; I suspect it was sous-vide before grilling to achieve a nice char on the outside while keeping it juicy on the inside. It pairs beautifully with the Tare sauce, along with a hint of saltiness from soy sauce and Dashi.

Barbak is a restaurant located right across from West Lake, offering a beautiful view of the lake.

As I write this, I’ve eaten at the restaurant twice in one month – yes, it’s that good. The dishes I’ve highlighted are definitely ones I’ll be ordering every time I visit, and I might even set up a little ‘frequent diner’ card just for Barbak.

If you're on the lookout for a place that delivers both comfort and culinary excitement, Barbak hits the spot. VNS

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Barbak

Address: 22 Quảng An Street, Tây Hồ District, Hà Nội

Price: from VNĐ49,000 – 539,000

Comment: Modern, cosy, fusion, flavourful, exquisite.

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