By Gia Linh

The culinary landscape of Việt Nam is currently a vibrant tapestry woven with threads of creativity and imagination.

More and more, establishments are setting their sights beyond merely satisfying hunger, aiming to engage not just the palate, but also the visual and intellectual senses of their patrons.

A cursory scroll online reveals a plethora of restaurants embracing trendy and distinctive concepts: a slice of Chinatown, a whimsical chemical laboratory, a journey through the cosmos, the rustic charm of cottagecore – the spectrum of themes is seemingly endless.

With this prevailing trend firmly in mind, my quest this week centred on discovering a venue worthy of review, where a compelling concept was imperative, and bonus points were awarded for a menu that mirrored this imaginative spirit.

And when I almost gave up after a two-day quest, the algorithm came to the rescue.

Popping up on my Instagram feed was Forest Therapy, a self-proclaimed soulful kitchen and bar tucked away on Nguyễn Thái Bình Street in District 1, HCM City.

Forest Therapy in HCM City District 1’s Nguyễn Thái Bình Street is a soulful kitchen and bar with a forestry concept that offers a unique and truly relaxing space. VNS Photo Gia Linh

I was instantly intrigued by their website: the venue had a lush, tropical forest theme and interiors overflowing with greenery and terrariums.

I booked a table and headed over that very afternoon.

Right at the entrance was a glass-enclosed kitchen followed by a narrow alleyway to the main hall, and when I got upstairs I was instantly in awe.

The restaurant was a lush green oasis in the heart of the city: floor-to-ceiling living walls of monstera and vines, stunning mural paintings, and tiny terrariums under every table. It was beyond what I had imagined.

At the corner of the stairs sat a beautifully appointed bar, and seatings were arranged comfortably for both couples and groups.

I must confess to a past, perhaps somewhat superficial, notion that restaurants that focused on decor often lacked culinary substance.

But Forest Therapy proved me completely wrong.

The menu was a delight: cleverly named fusion dishes inspired by both the vibrant Vietnamese and western cuisines.

It featured everything from savoury plates to desserts and trendy alcoholic drinks.

It took our family a full 10 minutes to decide what to order. Following this a further 15 minutes or so were dedicated to capturing the visually arresting presentation of the space before our dishes arrived.

We started light with a plate of olive scorched rice tapas.

Each bite-sized piece was packed with flavours from seven ingredients: the signature crunch of Ninh Bình crispy rice, succulent tiger prawns, savoury pork, creamy guacamole, delicate soft-boiled quail eggs, the briny tang of green olives, and the rich, umami depth of kho quẹt (Vietnamese caramelised fish sauce).

The chef played a masterful game with textures – every element stood out distinctly but came together in harmony.

This seemingly simple dish hid layers of complexity, with the olives having a tart punch and sweet, umami-rich kho quẹt tying everything together.

That smooth start set expectations high for the remainder of the meal, expectations that the subsequent dishes did not fail to meet.

The menu is a collection of fusion, modern dishes and creative mixology inspired by Vietnamese cuisine. VNS Photo Gia Linh

We tried the Chinatown tacos, one of the restaurant’s new arrivals.

Instead of traditional taco shells, the dish used crispy wonton skins and stuffed them with shredded char siu pork, cress, pickled mustard greens, guacamole, and house-made satay sauce.

We were speechless, eyes closed, nodding in silent approval.

The creativity behind this dish really shone, blending the best of Mexican, Vietnamese and Chinese culinary traditions.

After this parade of delightful surprises, we paused our exploration of the savoury menu to sample two cocktails inspired by Vietnamese street foods.

I chose chè chuối đầu hẻm, a banana sweet soup cocktail, because it was a childhood favourite.

The first sip evoked a powerful wave of reminiscence; the drink tasted remarkably like the original dessert, albeit with a sophisticated boozy twist courtesy of rum and the sweet notes of coconut and banana liqueurs.

My sister ordered the Tiền Giang sugarcane juice cocktail and ended up loving it despite not being much of a drinker.

We had never imagined rum could go so well with sugarcane juice, but with jackfruit syrup, shiso leaves, and kumquat, the cocktail was both familiar and exotic.

Returning to the mains, we tried the bruschetta bò kho (Vietnamese beef stew).

We all know bò kho and bread as a classic breakfast; so what could this version offer?

Plenty, as it turned out.

Sitting on a slice of dark rye bread with cheddar sauce was a mound of tender shredded bò kho garnished with pickled lotus root and bell peppers, caramelised onion preserve and a sprinkle of parmesan cheese.

The flavous were beautifully balanced. The bò kho dominated the palate, the cheese added a nice richness without overpowering it and the pickles offered just the right tang.

“A street food dish taken to the next level,” my parents said.

Our final dish of the night, phở-ever beef steak, ended the meal on a high note.

The phở-ever beef steak sets the bar high with its high-quality Hokubee striploin and smart combination of ingredients. VNS Photo Gia Linh

Made with premium Australian Hokubee striploin, known for its tenderness and marbling, the portion was generous for its VNĐ449,000 (US$17.3) price tag.

The steak itself was exceptional, and it was complemented beautifully by the hoisin sauce base infused with phở spices.

On the side was a bundle of sweet-n-sour mixed rice noodles topped with crisp water celery, a refreshing counterpoint to the rich meat.

The dish was amazing, and a thoughtful and flavourful tribute to the traditional noodle soup.

We spent the rest of the evening chatting, sipping cocktails, enjoying the food, and soaking up the tranquil atmosphere.

The concept itself was brilliant, and we appreciated how private and intimate the place felt.

Our bill came to around VNĐ1.4 million ($54) for five generous dishes and two cocktails, entirely fair for the creativity and care put into each item.

We were especially impressed by the mixology, and I’d highly recommend giving the cocktails a try.

So, if you are looking for a place to slow down and reconnect with your loved ones, Forest Therapy is my top recommendation.

With exceptional food, unique drinks and a one-of-a-kind dining experience, it is a feast for all the senses. VNS

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Forest Therapy

Address: 76 Nguyễn Thái Bình Street, District 1, HCM City

Hotline: 0347 67 67 09

Opening hours: 5pm to midnight (closed on Tuesdays)

Website: foresttherapy.vn