New Year, new Été: a bistro in the heart of Hà Nội

February 09, 2025 - 10:00
Été Bar is not just a neighbourhood watering hole but positioned as both a date night gem and a spot for casual evenings with friends.

By Alex Reeves

Été Bar has long been on my radar but reviewing it for the weekend paper was not on my 2025 bingo card. Yet here we are. This is a place where almost everyone I know seemed to have been a regular at one point or another.

A centrepiece: The raclette is generously portioned for sharing with friends. Photos courtesy of Alex Reeves

It's located off Đội Cấn Ward, and it’s been the setting for many a different sort of evening over the years, but it was always been more a bar where I might grab a burger than somewhere to crow about to other ‘foodies’. It was a stalwart of Hà Nội expat bars, part of the furniture, a safe bet, a sure thing, a great option. It’s been many things and still is, but has it ever served foie gras? Well, it does now.

Été reborn: This neighbourhood classic is back with the kitchen open til midnight.

While serving foie gras isn’t a reason to visit, let alone review somewhere, it is a clear marker of the change that’s afoot to any past regulars. Été has been standing for two decades, originally a French-Korean owned venture, it was a place to be in its early days and it endured further under a French-Vietnamese couple before their split removed any French influence from the ownership over the last decade.

It continued to be a success and hub for all different kinds of expats, but most recently due to age and a changing demographic, it had at times become a last resort, or people pleaser rather than a first choice. Now, the French influence has returned and so with it, a good reason to revisit and see which way the wind is blowing. Perhaps a return to its glory days is afoot.

Unexpected highlight: A smoked duck & green tea salad that exceeded all expectations.

In an area that is growing in numbers but still lacking in eateries compared to Tây Hồ District, it has been transformed into a bistro at the hands of Cesar, who is well-involved in F&B here, and Chi of Paolo and Chi fame. Upon entering the revamped space, you're met with an ambience that marries upscale gastropub with classic bistro. Light wood and palette-mixing cool and warm hues give a modern yet timeless vibe.

This isn’t an attempt to reinvent the wheel, but rather a reinvigoration of a neighbourhood classic with an atmosphere to match. Cesar, ever-present, circulates the tables, embodying a bistro’s typical convivial spirit. The ambience is what you'd hope for on a Friday night: lively yet laid-back, refined but without pretension.

Flying colours: A juicy steak is an essential for any bistro menu.

A seasonal offering is what got us out of the starting blocks. Raclette, French style, is more playful and communal than its unwieldy Swiss cousin. A generous plate of slices is served with a portable grill to render the cheese to its gooey best. The cheese with its distinctive nutty aroma can be lathered over baby potatoes, button mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and pickles alongside a frankly massive portion of classic cold-cut meat – salami, prosciutto and fresh ham (VNĐ620,000/US$25).

Next up was a green tea and smoked duck salad, interplayed with slices of beetroot, orange, and walnut, adding both flavour and texture in a homemade raspberry dressing. Incredibly well-balanced, sweet, smoky, earthy with a satisfying crunch. I was surprised at just how well this came together, in that each aspect of the salad truly complemented one another, elevating it to being an unexpected highlight of the evening ($9).

Choosing the main course was a challenge, with temptations like the lamb rack beckoning.

We opted for the ribeye. The steak, a litmus test for any self-respecting bistro, was seared to perfection, arriving juicy and flavourful, accompanied by a side of exceptionally creamy mashed potatoes and peppercorn sauce for pouring or dipping, that clung onto each slice of meat with a silken touch ($17). As we came towards the final chapter of the evening, my thoughts were occupied with choices for my next visit.

French style fun: Smaller slices of raclette cheese for grilling and sharing.

For dessert, I opted for the chocolate fondant – a decision that I will undoubtedly repeat on subsequent visits. The cakey and crunchy exterior gave way to a rich molten heart that pooled on the plate, inviting me to dive in with a scoop of pistachio ice cream, another small detail helping to cement a successful evening’s indulgence ($5). Speaking of which, beer heads will rejoice as Été is to my knowledge the only bar in the city to serve La Chouffe on draft, surely one of the best pours in town ($6).

Today, Été stands again, not just as a neighbourhood watering hole but positioned as both a date night gem and a spot for casual evenings with friends. Yet, despite its new identity, it retains a charm that should resonate with the expat community and locals alike. It’s a reminder of the city’s evolving landscape, where classic spots will need to be given a new life if they’re to prosper in a fiercely competitive market.

Indulgence: Underneath this cake exterior is a cavity of gooey decadence.

Fortunately, it has all the minerals to succeed. A centralised location with a well-known name, a menu served at a price point that’s fair and accessible for those of us looking for a well-cooked meal that we can’t turn around at home and a fine selection of drinks. The only question is will residents of Hà Nội support their local bistro? I for one, shall. VNS

Été Bistro & Bar

Address: 95 Giang Văn Minh Street, Đội Cấn Ward, Ba Đình District, Hà Nội

Tel: 097 675 13 31

Price: US$60 (for full raclette, salad, steak, dessert and a beer)

Comment: Ideal for date night, family and friends.

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