Dr Snigdha Singh. Photo courtesy of Family Medical Practice

Dr Snigdha Singh*

Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature. In the quest to achieve perfect skin, people of all ages are constantly searching for the 'best' skincare products. Whether they shop at a pharmacy, department store, or online, people are faced with a paradox of choice. They turn to their friends, physicians, or favourite bloggers for recommendations, often purchasing expensive products that fail to live up to their expectations.

For choosing the right skin care, it’s essential to first understand the concept of ageing.

Extrinsic ageing, which includes ultraviolet exposure, pollution and lifestyle choices such as smoking, diet, and daily skincare habits, is estimated to account for 80 per cent of the visible signs of skin ageing. Whereas intrinsic ageing, which is genetically determined and subject to the influence of one’s overall health, stress level, and propensity to develop skin conditions such as acne, rosacea or eczema, accounts for only 20 per cent.

A plethora of aesthetic procedures, from chemical peeling, micro-needling and PRP Therapy to injections with volumising fillers, neurotoxins, and laser resurfacing, are available these days to address these signs of ageing. However, for maintaining that healthy, radiant skin, a proper at-home skincare routine is a must.

A great way to start is to know your skin type.

-       NORMAL SKIN: Even texture and tone, blemish-free, normal pores.

-       OILY SKIN: Visibly enlarged pores, feels greasy to the touch, looks shiny, frequent acne breakouts.

-       DRY SKIN: No enlarged pores, looks flaky, feels dry and stretched, with more visible lines.

-        COMBINATION SKIN: Oily T-zone with normal-dry face, occasional breakouts in oily areas.

-       SENSITIVE SKIN (not actually a type but a skin condition): Reactive and easily irritated, prone to skin allergies causing redness or stinging/burning sensation due to genetic or external factors.

BASIC SKINCARE

Prevention, protection, cleansing, and moisturising are the key components of an effective skincare routine.

1. Prevention: preventing contact with known irritants, allergens, solvents, surfactants and sensitising preservatives. It’s a concern, especially for patients with sensitive skin where we recommend products with minimum ingredients.

2. Protection: most sun damage results from everyday, incidental ultraviolet exposure, rather than occasional bursts while on vacation. The most effective active ingredients for blocking out both UV-A and UV-B are either zinc oxide or avobenzone.

- Normal-Dry Skin: Hyaluronic acid

- Oily-Combination Skin: Gel/Water-based

- Dull Skin: Vitamin-C (Ascorbic acid)

Sunscreen application pointers:

· Amount: 2 finger lengths.

· Application: Daily after moisturizer. Reapply every 2 hours when outside.

3. Cleansing: should be practised twice daily.

-       Normal-Dry Skin: Cream/Lotion based, look for Glycerine or Hyaluronic acid.

-       Oily-Combination Skin: Gel-based/foaming, look for salicylic acid.

-       Dull SkinLook for AHA/Glycolic acid

4. Moisturising: should be applied immediately after the cleanser when the skin is still moist.

-       Normal-Dry Skin: Ointments or creams. Look for Glycerine/Paraffin/ Hyaluronic acid/Ceramides.

-       Sensitive Skin: Look for Niacinamide/Hyaluronic acid/Peptides.

-       Oily-Combination Skin: Gels, lotions or serums are lightweight oil in water formulations.

Prevention, protection, cleansing, and moisturising are the key components of an effective skincare routine. Photo shuttestock.com

ADVANCED SKINCARE

1. Retinoids

Essential add-ons to your night skincare routine which has anti-ageing effects and is beneficial in acne-prone skin.

· Two times/week in your 20s,

· Three times/week in your 30s

· Four times/week in your 40s and

· Five times/week in your 50s and ages above it.

*not recommended for sensitive or very dry skin or people with certain skin conditions like Rosacea or eczema.

2. Chemical Exfoliants

It is the process of removing excess corneocyte buildup, which in turn stimulates cell turnover, resulting in more polished, smoother radiant skin. It can be included in your skincare routine three times a week in the form of serum or toner.

· AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) – recommended in dull, sun-damaged skin, uneven skin tone and pigmentation.

· BHA (Beta Hydroxyl Acid) – recommended in Oily acne-prone skin.

· PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acid) - recommended for sensitive skin, dry skin, sun damaged skin.

*Concentrations in excess of 10 per cent to 15 per cent in the case of AHA and 2 per cent in β-hydroxy acid require professional administration.

3. Antioxidants

Can be used as a serum after cleansing and before moisturisation.

· Niacinamide – for acne-prone skin, oily skin, sensitive skin, and inflamed skin.

· Vitamin C - for dull and sun-damaged skin.

· Green tea extracts – for acne prone, oily to combination skin.

· CoQ 10 – for signs of ageing, uneven skin tone, and sun-damaged skin.

As we grow older, our skin’s inherent anti-ageing mechanisms diminish and the rate of breakdown of key constituents increases. Although cosmetic procedures have a significant positive impact on specific aspects of ageing, clinically proven products, formulated with the right ingredients for a specific skin concern and delivered in an esthetically appealing system, will both maximise the outcome and increase the longevity of benefits from the treatments we provide while empowering the patient to personalise and control their skincare journey. — Family Medical Practice

* Dr. Snigdha Singh studied a Bachelor of Medicine and Surgery and a masters in Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology. She specialises in diagnosing and treating various skin disorders, scalp and hair, disorders of sebaceous- and sweat glands, oral mucosal lesions, etc. She is also an expert in treating signs of aging like wrinkles, sagging or dull skin, acne (scars), pigmentation, melasma, sun damaged skin, etc. with lasers, chemical peeling, microneedling, PRP therapy, botox, dermal fillers, etc.

Visit Family Medical Practice Hanoi 24/7 at 298I P. Kim Mã, Kim Mã, Ba Đình. To book an appointment, please call us at (024).3843.0784, or contact us via Whatsapp, Viber or Zalo on +84.944.43.1919 or email hanoi@vietnammedicalpractice.com.

FMP’s downtown location in Hồ Chí Minh is in Diamond Plaza, 34 Đ. Lê Duẩn, Bến Nghé, District 1, and 95 Đ. Thảo Điền, District 2. Tel. (028) 3822 7848 or email hcmc@vietnammedicalpractice.com.