By Alex Reeves – @afreeves23

My friend Chris is not a vegetarian. I’m not a vegetarian. So why did I spend my Saturday evening working through a generous selection of meat-free dishes with him at a strictly vegetarian restaurant? This is a mate who I’m far more used to splitting burgers and chewing the cud with than chewing the actual vegetation itself.

Style and substance: The decor of the building feels like you’re dining in a temple. Photos courtesy of Alex Reeves

But when he informed me that his new private tutoring gig involved sharpening the English of Ms Đỗ Thu Hà, proprietor and visionary behind Việt Nam’s only vegetarian restaurant to receive a Bib Gourmand, and that she’d be more than happy to host us for the evening, I’d have been, at best, a shoddy food writer and, at worst, bloody ignorant to say no.

I am, by modern standards, somewhat of a culinary dinosaur when it comes to my appreciation of our leaf-loving friends embracing the plant-based lifestyle. But I am both sympathetic to their beliefs and in awe of their restraint. I’m less Anthony Bourdain declaring vegetarians “the enemy of everything good and decent in the human spirit, and an affront to all I stand for, the pure enjoyment of food” and more The Simpsons chanting “you don’t make friends with salad”.

Fortunately, there’s a damn sight more than salad going on at Ưu Đàm Chay.

Contrasting crunch: The inventive take on 'cơm cháy' was just one of many textures.

Ms Hà is stylish – calm, confident and composed, much like the food she serves. She’s open and transparent about her vision, crediting the restaurant’s enduring success since 2015 to sourcing the freshest ingredients through a network of local spotters, both across Việt Nam and abroad. While many vegetarian restaurants fixate to the point of obsession on hyper-local sustainability, Ưu Đàm Chay prioritises quality, even when that means Hà Nội can’t provide.

Big menus are often a red flag in this game, yet the eight dishes we tried delivered across the board. For someone of a more carnivorous persuasion, I was surprised at how I didn’t find any of them lacking, and felt nothing served would have been any better for the introduction of meat. The diverse textures and layered flavours reflect the care taken in curating and preserving a wide variety of produce without compromising on the meat-free ethos.

Warm welcomes: The pumpkin soup was a hearty introduction to a wonderful meal.

The stewed pumpkin soup, filled with gnocchi and enriched with ‘fame flower’ (talimum), a precious medicinal herb, was warm and welcoming. The hollowed out pumpkin is repurposed as the vessel for its own soup, it’s comforting and clever, serving as an early indicator of how waste is discouraged and byproducts find purpose throughout the menu.

That warmth is balanced by the crispy rice cake (cơm cháy) topped with a sweet but sharp corn sauce. The fresh basil aside, I had to be guided through the remaining toppings. This wasn’t the only time, with the restaurant utilising such a wide array of ingredients that unless you’re a botanist, you can expect to learn as you eat.

Royal lotus salad: As delicious as it was beautiful.

A pineapple stuffed with vibrant fried rice and macadamias was a more easily identifiable highlight, the fruit hollowed out so thinly that the light seemed to glow from within, as though it had been placed upon a glowing orb. The soy-glazed tofu, Japanese-style, was crisp and delicate to the exterior, giving way to a fluffy centre, crowned with mint alongside shredded truffle mushroom.

What’s notable as we work through this impressive variety of dishes is that nothing seems to be trying to replicate meat. So often the done thing in vegetarian spots, such is consumer lust for meat, or at least something approaching it.

Ms Hà is clear that this is very much by design and has been since the start. Despite not being a strict vegetarian herself, she most often eats meals centred around vegetables and believes strongly in letting the ingredients and their potential speak for themselves rather than attempting to imitate.

Triumphant tofu: Crispy on the outside, almost creamy in the middle.

Next up, Mộc Thiết, a dish derived from Sino-Vietnamese pronunciation, in which “Mộc” (木) symbolises softness and gentleness whereas “Thiết” (鐵) represents strength and solidity, the name of the dish is connected to Buddhist principles of balance but despite its beauty was one of the few dishes that we felt lacked precisely that.

There’s no other way to describe these than miniature crunchy tacos layered with a creamy, mayo-like, bright pink pear-infused sauce. While refreshing, the sauce is perhaps a tad too plentiful, overpowering the ingredients that end up hidden in the shell below.

While still a hit, a reduction in the volume of the sauce would be more in keeping with allowing all components of each dish to shine.

Mộc Thiết: Embodying the contrast yet harmony between softness and strength.

To finish, a grilled durian crème brûlée, utilising the thick and creamy texture of the fruit with the traditional style of the dessert to end the evening with class. To those wincing at the thought of this pungent fruit, I understand. Despite being nowhere near an advocate of the so-called 'king of fruit', here I say trust the chef – it really works and may convert a few doubters.

Despite the abundance of offerings, we’re left feeling fresh and excited for the evening ahead, instead of suffering the meat sweats or carb-induced coma that usually accompanies a multi-course meal. We don’t feel heavy as we wander the floors of the building, appreciating the unique interior with its use of wood repurposed from old temples and zen vibes. Dimly lit but bright at the table, it’s a deceivingly large and endlessly complex space.

Durian delight: A fine way to end an evening with a twist on a French classic.

For what being Michelin-featured is worth, it’s refreshing that Ms Hà doesn’t seem to care all that much. She’s simply a great cook with a vision, something her daughter – who kindly and elegantly translated for us – confirmed.

Having now visited Ưu Đàm Chay, I’ve abandoned my long-held misconception that vegetarian food is only to be enjoyed when generously seasoned with Indian spices. So, if the aim here is to showcase what can be achieved with high-quality ingredients and no meat, then I, for one, am convinced. VNS

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Ưu Đàm Chay

Address: 55 Nguyễn Du Street, Hoàn Kiếm Ward, Hà Nội

Tel: 0981 349 898

Price: VNĐ1million (approx. US$40) for around four dishes and a drink

Top tip: Bring friends to take full advantage of a large menu.