Legendary Paris restaurant to transport French gastronomy to Hà Nội

October 20, 2024 - 10:00
George Koumendakos, general manager of Metropole, shares insights into the historic cooperation to provide La Tour d'Argent dining experience in Hà Nội and its significance for the hotel’s ongoing commitment to fine dining and cultural connection.

For the first time, La Tour d’Argent – the iconic 400-year-old Parisian restaurant – is bringing its world-renowned culinary experience abroad, with a special showcase in Hà Nội. The exclusive dining event will take place at Le Beaulieu at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi from October 23 to 27.

George Koumendakos, general manager of Metropole, shares insights into this historic cooperation and its significance for the hotel’s ongoing commitment to fine dining and cultural connection.

General Manager of Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, George Koumendakos. Photos courtesy of SLMH

Inner Sanctum: La Tour d'Argent is one of the oldest restaurants in Paris. What inspired the decision to bring this Parisian legend to Hà Nội?

At Sofitel, we’ve always taken pride in being a bridge between cultures, showcasing French joie de vivre and excellence in gastronomy worldwide. To celebrate our Diamond Jubilee, we wanted to create something truly special for our guests. Partnering with La Tour d’Argent – a Parisian institution that has been serving exceptional cuisine since 1582 – seemed the perfect choice.

La Tour d’Argent that has stood on the banks of the River Seine since 1582, is a pillar of French gastronomic heritage.

La Tour d’Argent has an extraordinary history, having hosted royalty, world leaders, and cultural icons such as Henry IV, Queen Elizabeth II, and John F. Kennedy. This rich legacy aligns beautifully with that of the Metropole Hanoi, a hotel steeped in its own history and tradition.

Le Beaulieu, our French fine-dining restaurant, has been part of Hà Nội’s gastronomic landscape since the hotel’s opening in 1901. It is considered the oldest continually operating restaurant in Việt Nam and is celebrated for its modern take on French cuisine, which remains rooted in classic flavours while placing emphasis on seasonality and the finest ingredients.

Inner Sanctum: Did collaborating with such a restaurant require many challenges?

The process took nearly a year. From our side at Sofitel, partnering with La Tour d'Argent was a natural fit given our shared commitment to excellence and innovation. For La Tour d'Argent, which recently reopened after extensive renovations, this collaboration represents an opportunity to extend its influence internationally. We’re very proud that they chose Metropole Hanoi for their first major culinary event outside Paris.

During the planning stages, we worked closely with the team from La Tour d'Argent to ensure that the facilities, kitchen standards, and service at Le Beaulieu could match their storied legacy. This meant sourcing the finest ingredients, including duck, caviar, and cheese, to mirror the quality of the dishes served in Paris. A lot of attention to detail went into recreating the authenticity of the La Tour d'Argent dining experience here in Hà Nội.

Executive Chef Yannick Franques of La Tour d'Argent (left) poses with Le Beaulieu’s Chef de Cuisine, Charles Degrendele, who has been trained onsite at La Tour d'Argent in Paris.

Inner Sanctum: Will Executive Chef Yannick Franques be overseeing the event personally?

Yes, Chef Yannick Franques will be leading the kitchen for this five-day event. Having him on-site is incredibly exciting for our team. Chef Franques is known for his creativity and for reimagining classic dishes in ways that remain true to their origins while also pushing culinary boundaries.

To prepare, our kitchen team has been hard at work for several months. We’ve trained extensively to ensure that we can support Chef Franques and his team in executing La Tour d'Argent’s signature dishes flawlessly.

Le Beaulieu’s Chef de Cuisine, Charles Degrendele, and Assistant Director of F&B, Kevin Danet, even travelled to Paris to train directly at La Tour d'Argent, ensuring that our kitchen team is aligned with the high standards expected.

It’s not every day that two legendary culinary teams come together like this, and it’s been a true pleasure to watch the collaboration unfold.

Inner Sanctum: Dining at La Tour d'Argent is about more than food – it's an experience. How do you plan to recreate this unique experience?

It’s true, La Tour d'Argent offers not just exquisite cuisine, but also a dining experience that is steeped in history. While we can’t replicate the 16th-century charm of their Paris location or their views of the Seine, we have a rich history of our own at Le Beaulieu, which dates back to 1901. The restaurant’s timeless elegance and the historical grandeur of the Metropole Hanoi make it the perfect setting for this event.

'Crêpes Mademoiselle'.

We will also be recreating some of the signature dining experiences that guests of La Tour d'Argent enjoy, such as the cutting of duck tableside and the flambéing of Crêpes Mademoiselle.

La Tour d'Argent’s service team, along with Chef Franques and his kitchen staff, will be present to ensure that the guests here in Hà Nội receive an experience as close as possible to dining at La Tour d'Argent in Paris.

Inner Sanctum: Will the menu feature dishes from La Tour d'Argent, or will there be something new?

The menu that Chef Franques has crafted for this event reflects the excellence that defines La Tour d'Argent. While many iconic dishes will be featured, Chef Franques has also reimagined them with a modern twist, ensuring that they remain true to their roots while offering something fresh and exciting.

Dishes like Mystère de l'Oeuf, Sole Sully and Crêpes Mademoiselle will take centre stage, but there is also a special dish created exclusively for this event – Caneton Charlie Chaplin. This dish, inspired by the actor who honeymooned at the Metropole in 1936, features duck infused with Quảng Nam Province’s specialty pepper, served with bok choy, lime, and ginger. It beautifully combines classic French culinary techniques with local Vietnamese ingredients.

‘Caneton Charlie Chaplin’.

Inner Sanctum: Speaking of Caneton Charlie Chaplin, what significance does this dish hold for the Metropole?

Serving Caneton Charlie Chaplin is a tribute to both history and culinary excellence. Charlie Chaplin, who honeymooned at the Metropole in 1936, frequently dined at La Tour d'Argent during his time in Paris. This dish connects two significant parts of Chaplin’s life – his love for Paris and his stay at the Metropole – and offers a moment where history and gastronomy intersect.

It’s a perfect way to honour Chaplin’s legacy while celebrating the rich cultural history of the Metropole Hanoi.

Inner Sanctum: Will diners be able to sample some of La Tour d'Argent’s wines?

Absolutely. The wine pairings for this event have been carefully curated in collaboration with La Tour d'Argent to reflect the depth and character of their renowned wine list. Each wine has been chosen to perfectly complement the dishes on the menu, offering guests in Hà Nội an authentic French dining experience.

The essence of La Tour d'Argent’s wine heritage will be felt in every glass, ensuring that this event is not just about fine food but also about exceptional wine pairings. VNS

E-paper