Expat Corner
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| The Japanese area of Hanoi has a completely different vibe to other areas of the city. Photo by @afreeves23 |
AF Reeves - @afreeves23
It could be that I'm currently teaching my eager learners about the never simple topic of migration, or perhaps that I'm already battling the urge to put my feet up and enjoy the anticipation of a summer's travels. Either way, I've been thinking. Schedules, rising flight costs and the seemingly limitless number of children your friends are capable of bringing into the world have a way of grounding even the most committed travellers. For all of Việt Nam's considerable charm, it is a fairly homogenous country, whereas many of us are here by virtue of our love for travel and that need to experience something different on a somewhat regular basis.
By no means, to the disappointment of some, is this me announcing any impending departure. Instead, this is the first in a series where I hope to introduce a few spots that can recreate that sense of escapism for those of us battling the incurable sensation of itchy feet. To the long-timers and the adventurous, this may be nothing new, but to those who only escape the West Lake bubble to dip their toes into the rapids of the Old Quarter, there may be a spot of inspiration here.
First up: J-Town. That's right, Hà Nội has its very own Japanese quarter, and it is arguably the most developed expat community outside of Tây Hồ. There is Kanji (漢字) signage, long-term residents and the businesses built specifically to make them feel at home. Sprawling between Kim Mã, Linh Lang and Phan Kế Bính since the mid-2000s, when Japanese investment and a deepening bilateral relationship with Việt Nam began drawing a steady stream of corporate postings to the city. By 2010 the neighbourhood had extended its reach, and by 2016 it had consolidated into something distinct and recognisable.
Pop in after work for highballs and yakitori at Izakaya Yên or Hatsumoude to sample that salaryman vibe. You will be greeted in Japanese, and for a couple of hours you could plausibly be adrift in a Tokyo backstreet. The former carries a touch more authenticity than the latter, though in either case you will likely be the only foreigner in the room. That, though, is rather the point.
The Japanese supermarkets alone justify the trip. They stock genuine imported goods unavailable elsewhere in the city, and browsing them carries a quiet sense of wonder that the repetition of Circle-K and WinMart simply cannot replicate. While Ramen Haron gets my nod, trust your nose and gamble on a spot of your own, safe in the knowledge that most bowls in the area stand up to the daily scrutiny of Japanese clientele. For something more theatrical, Teppanyaki Diamond delivers the visual spectacle alongside the food.
After-hours spots are easy to find and kitchens run late into the night. For a note of pure surrealism, end the evening at Classic Hanoi: great drinks, confused looks and the genuinely curious foodie subculture of western fayre executed in distinctly Japanese fashion. If you cannot yet justify that trip of a lifetime, this is one of the most authentic and enjoyable forays the city has to offer. VNS