by Dạ Thương

Amid the modern hustle and bustle of Hà Nội, Vien Dining stands out not only for its exquisite cuisine but also for the captivating stories woven into its warm, inviting atmosphere.

Following such a compliment from a friend, I visited the restaurant to embark on a creative culinary adventure, meticulously prepared for diners through the menu entitled Vị Du (A Taste Voyage).

The architecture of the restaurant is reminiscent of old homes in Hà Nội. Photo courtesy of Vien Dining

At first glance, its architecture evokes a sense of familiarity, with walls adorned in terracotta tiles – a material reminiscent of old Hà Nội's homes. However, instead of retaining an old-fashioned feel, the space is thoughtfully arranged, combining natural light with minimalist decor to create a warm and elegant atmosphere.

A highlight is the fish-scale terracotta roof, a symbol of ancient Northern Việt Nam, which appears on the windows and the bar, where guests enjoy creatively crafted cocktails.

True to its name, A Taste Voyage guides diners through familiar terrains using the language of flavour – ranging from the mountainous landscapes of the northwest to the lush Mekong Delta, and from the ocean's depths to vibrant urban streets. A carefully curated selection of wines complements this journey, offering diners the opportunity to elevate their experience with each sip.

My taste voyage began in the north with grilled button mushrooms, tender and smoky, along with fermented black garlic and crispy shallots, evoking the scent of a kitchen in a traditional stilt house.

The deep umami flavour harmonised beautifully with the sharp acidity of Crémant d'Alsace Brut Riesling Jean Geiler from the Alsace region, creating a clean and pleasant taste reminiscent of an instrumental melody from the mountains and forests.

Button mushrooms, black garlic and crispy shallots. Photo courtesy of Vien Dining

The smoky flavour of the highlands was beautifully recreated in the grilled lamb wrapped in betel leaves. The gentle spiciness, combined with the smoky aroma and richness from roasted cashews, created a robust medley that evoked memories of intimate feasts in the mountains.

Lamb, betel leaf and cashews. Photo courtesy of Vien Dining

Following the previous dish, the grilled pigeon flavoured with mắc mật (Clausena indica) leaves – a renowned spice from Lạng Sơn – offered a fragrant and rich experience without being overpowering. I was invited to taste this dish with a touch of Mercurey Buissonnier Pinot Noir from Burgundy, and I found it to be a perfect match.

The wine's tangy acidity beautifully balances the savoury richness of the wonton filling, while its subtle herbal notes create a harmonious bridge with the distinctive aroma of the mắc mật leaves.

Pigeon, Clausena indica and wontons. Photo courtesy of Vien Dining

Descending to the plains, the pork jowl croquette is an intriguing reinterpretation of the traditional northern dish, giả cầy (a 'fake dog meat' stew). With a crispy taste and a rich béchamel filling infused with galangal and fermented rice, it creates a delightful transformation of flavours.

I was also invited to the culinary journey to the coastal region, where the light and salty breeze of Nha Trang is beautifully captured in the smoked crab salad with lime dressing, zucchini, radish and pumpkin seeds. The dish balances freshness, lightness, crispness and acidity, creating a micro-ecosystem on the plate.

The Séng Cù rice risotto with grilled oysters and goat belly mushrooms represents a meeting point between the sea and the mountain – a symphony of flavours where two ecosystems converge in a moment of coexistence.

Seared scallops with coconut foam and coriander sauce offered a nostalgic nod to the southern delicacy of coconut stir-fried snails, elevated through the techniques of foaming and flavour extraction. The gentle richness, sweet finish, and herbal aroma create a multi-layered taste experience.

This dish also reminded me of the rustic charm of Bến Tre and the coastal waters of the Somme in France, capturing the essence of Coquille St. Jacques.

A poetic highlight of the new menu at Vien Dining was the chawanmushi with shrimp broth, garnished with smoked tiger prawns and sautéed squash with garlic. Light yet rich, the dish recalled a summer afternoon in Hà Nội, filled with the gentle whir of woven fans and the fragrant aroma of fresh squash from a small kitchen. The silky texture, sweet finish and subtle fragrance create a sensory space where memories are encoded through taste.

Chawanmushi with shrimp broth. Photo courtesy of Vien Dining

My culinary journey concluded with a series of desserts by Chef Hà Vy, beginning with a tropical fruit mousse paired with roasted ant salt and light beer. The smooth texture, accompanied by a surprising blend of spicy, salty and subtly bitter notes, creates an unexpected flavour.

Next is the caramel sticky rice cake embracing ginger mousse and macadamia filling, a contemporary take on the traditional chè lam. The warm sweetness, light creaminess and interplay of soft and crunchy textures create depth in the tasting experience.

The bánh đa kê is reimagined in a fusion style: a crispy layer of rice crackers topped with golden millet, mung beans and syrup. The delicate sweetness, nutty richness and crispness make for a seemingly simple dish, yet it is crafted with precision, preserving the essence of home in a modern presentation.

Natural light and minimalist interiors create a warm, elegant space in Vien Dining. Photo courtesy of Vien Dining

Dining at Vien Dining is not just a meal; it is an immersive experience that invites diners to savour the essence of Việt Nam. The thoughtful curation of flavours and the warmth of the service create an atmosphere that feels both familiar and new.

As you leave, you carry with you the taste of exquisite dishes and a deeper appreciation for the rich tapestry of Vietnamese culture, making every visit a journey worth taking. VNS

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Vien Dining

Address: 3 Bà Triệu Alley, Hà Nội

Tel: 038 845 1919

Comment: Delightful exploration of Vietnamese flavours, creatively crafted dishes, curated wine list, inviting and warm atmosphere.