CENTRE-STAGE: Dining at the Liberty Quê Hương 2 lets you get a grasp of what was going on in central District 1, Hồ Chí Minh City. — Photo courtesy of the hotel

by Nguyễn Mỹ Hà

In a vibrant city with a rich culinary community representing almost every major dining tradition of Việt Nam, it can be tough to choose just one place to eat, as there's always something equally delicious nearby. In today's mix-and-match, fusion, and adaptation scene, it’s easier to find modernised food than places where hosts or cooks remain steadfast in their traditional cooking styles and flavours.

In Hà Nội, you can find southern-style restaurants offering dishes like caramelised fish and sour fish soup. But even after spending a few days in Hồ Chí Minh City, I don’t find myself craving northern food. Instead, I look forward to experiencing authentic southern flavours, which was high on my to-do list.

The Quê Hương Liberty 2 hotel boasts a rooftop restaurant spanning two floors, busiest during weekday lunchtimes. During our off-peak visit, we enjoyed a less hectic atmosphere and had more time to chat with the staff.

We hadn’t had a family-style rice meal for a few days and decided to indulge in a home-style dinner at the rooftop restaurant. Quê Hương stays true to its name, offering rural dishes with a distinctive sweet flavour that melts on your palate.

MEATY GOODNESS: Pork rib chops stew is served best on white rice or porridge. — VNS Photo Mỹ Hà

Without any appetisers, we dug straight into the main course: caramelised pork rib chops. They were delicious, blending the tangy taste of caramel sauce, the saltiness of fish sauce, the sweetness from sugar, and fresh pepper, all infusing the tender pork chops that fell off the bone. At some restaurants, the rib meat can be chewy, but here it was perfectly cooked. The rice serving, however, was portioned for six, which was too much for just two people.

SWEET & SOUR: The signature southern style fish soup has loyal followers everywhere across the country. — VNS Photo Mỹ Hà

Next, we had the taro stem sweet and sour fish soup. Việt Nam’s long coastline and numerous rivers mean people love fish, and there are many delicious ways to prepare fish soup, from mountain hamlets to sea fishing villages. This soup featured thick cuts of bông lau fish, a kind of catfish popular in the Mekong River basin. Known for its fatty, lean white meat, this fish is praised as the most delicious in the basa fish family. The thick cuts can be caramelised in a stew or cooked in soup.

Quê Hương offers several soups, all excellent. We tried the fish paste soup and other varieties with mustard greens and either fresh shrimp or ground pork, all delicious.

REGIONAL CLASSIC: Bánh hỏi, the angel hair white rice vermicelli served with roasted pork belly chops or pork paste roasted on lemongrass, a must-have every time you head south. — Photo courtesy of the Liberty Quê Hương restaurant

WORKING LUNCH: Work-day lunch buffet at under VNĐ200,000 caters to the working professionals in the neighbourhood. — Photo courtesy of Quê hương restaurant

A daily lunch buffet at Quê Hương, featuring traditional and seafood dishes, costs under VNĐ200,000. The buffet includes southern specialities like bánh hỏi, nem lụi, roasted shrimp, clams, and oysters.

Quê Hương Liberty has had great cooks who have won cooking prizes. Madame Sáu Ánh, now retired, was renowned for her caramelised cá bống kèo kho tộ (goby fish). Unfortunately, this time, the fish was out of season and unavailable. Cá bống kèo, found in the Mekong Delta provinces, is prized despite its bitter kidney, which adds a unique flavour.

The cá kèo hotpot, made with bitter vegetables and the sourness of lá giang, has become popular beyond the south. When eating this dish, ensure the broth boils furiously before consuming to avoid stomach issues.

Staying at Quê Hương feels like home, thanks to the wonderfully helpful staff, great food, and perfect location. Many overseas Vietnamese stay here when visiting. The rooms are clean and spacious, and the surrounding streets, including the nearby Bến Thành Market, are inviting. Enjoy this great, still underrated place while you can. VNS

Quê hương Liberty 2

Address: 129-133 Hàm Nghi St, Nguyễn Thái Bình Wrd, District 1, Hồ Chí Minh City

Tel: (028) 38224922

Comment: Great traditional food in downtown HCM City