SHOPKEEPERS: The facade of a town house on Lãn Ông Street looks a bit disorderly, but it has what you need on the shelves. VNS Photo Đoàn Tùng

By Nguyễn Mỹ Hà

On bustling Lãn Ông Street in Hà Nội’s Old Quarter, herb doctor Trần Vũ Cường examines patients every morning. Sitting at a wooden table with a small pillow where patients rest their wrists, he diagnoses health issues using traditional methods that have stood the test of time.

Dr Cường has over 20 years been blending his formal medical training with the practices of traditional medicine, offering insights that modern diagnostic machines often cannot replicate.

“Take a seat,” he tells his patients calmly, yet firmly. “Give me your left wrist.” His confident yet gentle approach immediately puts patients at ease.

SUPERFOODS: Healthy doses of wolfberry and red Chinese apples can be found in many herbal teas that help soothe nerves. VNS Photo Đoàn Tùng

Dr Cường places the tips of his index, middle, and ring fingers on a patient’s wrist to feel for subtle variations in their pulse. This ancient diagnostic technique, known as “pulse reading,” reveals detailed information about the patient’s health.

Traditional Vietnamese medicine, like other Eastern systems, views health as a balance of vital energies flowing through the body’s meridians. A blockage in these pathways can lead to pain or illness. Practitioners like Dr Cường work to restore this balance through herbal remedies, acupuncture, acupressure, and other techniques.

I experienced this approach first-hand during a recent visit. After examining my pulse, Dr Cường asked a question that caught me completely off guard: “Do you still have your period?”

It had been over 20 years since my last visit to a herb doctor, and such directness about a topic often considered private was unexpected. But in traditional medicine, understanding a woman’s menstrual cycle is key to diagnosing broader health concerns. Regularity, pain levels, and other details can provide clues about the body’s internal balance.

“Traditional medicine focuses on the flow of qi -- the body’s vital energy,” Dr Cường explained. “If your meridians are clear, you’re healthy. If they’re blocked, you’ll experience pain or illness.”

MEDICINE MAGIC: Dried medicinal roots must be weighted on a mini scale according to the ration by the doctor's formula. VNS Photo Đoàn Tùng

Journey of traditional healers

Traditional medicine practitioners in Việt Nam fall into two categories: formally trained doctors who specialise in traditional methods after medicine school, and "thầy lang", or traditional healers. The latter often inherit family secrets and recipes for herbal treatments, passed down through generations.

Dr Cường combines rigorous academic knowledge with centuries-old techniques. His method of reading pulses to assess the condition of a patient’s meridians is a skill honed over decades.

“Each patient’s pulse tells a story,” he says. “By listening closely, we can uncover imbalances in the body.”

In addition to pulse reading, traditional medicine incorporates an extensive understanding of natural remedies. With over 2,000 acupoints identified along the meridians, treatment is highly individualised, addressing each patient’s unique needs.

HERITAGE BUILDING: This building used to be the Fujian Assembly Hall on Lãn Ông Street. It usage was altered to be a school in the 1980s. VNS Photo Đoàn Tùng

One of the most commonly recommended remedies at Dr Cường’s clinic is tam thất (panax pseudoginseng), a powerful plant tuber known for its ability to improve blood flow and vitality.

“Powdered panax pseudoginseng is excellent for blood circulation,” he advises during a consultation. “It’s especially beneficial for women going through hormonal changes or those recovering from childbirth.”

The root, while effective, is notoriously bitter. “If you can handle the taste, the results are worth it. The bitterness cures, and the lingering aftertaste is surprisingly sweet,” he adds, referencing the Vietnamese proverb, “Thuốc đắng dã tật” or bitter medicine cures illness.

Traditional remedies require patience. Herbal medicine packs, often a mix of dried roots, leaves, and bark, need to be simmered for hours to extract their full healing properties. Terracotta pots are preferred for their ability to retain heat and enhance the medicine’s potency, although modern electric cookers offer convenience.

“The process may seem tedious,” says Dr Cường, “but it’s a ritual that connects us to the wisdom of our ancestors.”

HERBAL HELPERS: From the hundreds of wooden boxes that keep the dried medicinal ingredients, its soothing smell fills the air on Lãn Ông Street. VNS Photo Đoàn Tùng

Street steeped in history

Lãn Ông Street, located in Hà Nội’s Old Quarter, has been synonymous with traditional medicine for over a century. Named after Hải Thượng Lãn Ông—the father of traditional Vietnamese medicine—it is a living testament to Việt Nam’s rich healing heritage.

In the 19th century, the street served as a marketplace for zinc and copper from northern mines. During French colonial rule, it housed a vibrant Fujian community whose herbal traditions influenced the local culture.

HARD TO SWALLOW: A mixture of dried ingredients is simmered for 2 hours to extract medicinal essence. VNS Photo Đoàn Tùng

By the early 20th century, Vietnamese families began opening herbal medicine shops. Many of these practitioners hailed from villages renowned for their medicinal knowledge, such as Đa Ngưu and Nghĩa Trại in Hưng Yên Province. These shops offered remedies for common ailments, as well as specialised treatments based on secret family recipes.

Lãn Ông Street nowadays remains a vibrant hub for traditional medicine. Walking along the street, visitors are greeted by the earthy aroma of dried herbs and the sight of jars filled with ingredients like ginseng, lingzhi mushrooms and cinnamon sticks. The street’s legacy is as much about preserving tradition as it is about healing.

In recent years, Lãn Ông Street has become a popular destination for tourists seeking a cultural experience. Many visitors stop by the herb shops to learn about traditional remedies and even consult practitioners like Dr Cường.

“I’ve treated patients from Germany, France and Austria,” he says. “When I accurately diagnose their conditions, they’re amazed by traditional methods and often take remedies home.”

Tourists are often intrigued by the holistic approach of traditional medicine. “They realise it’s not just about curing disease but about maintaining balance and preventing future health issues,” says Dr Cường.

Bridging East and West

While traditional medicine excels in treating chronic conditions, Dr Cường acknowledges the strengths of modern medical practices.

“Western medicine is unparalleled when it comes to acute conditions like infections or injuries,” he says. “But for chronic issues—joint pain, liver disease, fatigue—traditional methods often yield better results.”

Many patients use traditional remedies alongside Western treatments. Elderly patients, in particular, appreciate the gentler approach of herbal medicine, which boosts overall health without the harsh side effects of synthetic drugs.

“For example, herbal remedies work well for conditions like high blood pressure and poor circulation,” says Dr Cường. “These treatments complement Western medications, enhancing their effectiveness.”

Children, too, benefit from traditional medicine, particularly for conditions like bed-wetting or excessive sweating, which are often difficult to treat with modern methods.

One of the most significant advantages of traditional medicine is its focus on prevention. By maintaining the body’s balance, traditional remedies can help patients avoid serious health issues later in life.

“For many patients, traditional medicine is a way to enhance their overall wellbeing,” says Dr Cường. “It’s about addressing small issues before they become major problems.”

However, he laments that younger generations often neglect preventative care. “When you’re young, you trade your health for money,” he says. “By the time you start caring about your health, it’s often too late.”

Holistic approach

Despite the scepticism some may have, traditional medicine continues to offer a valuable alternative to modern healthcare. Its emphasis on prevention, balance, and individualised care makes it an indispensable part of Việt Nam’s medical landscape.

“Traditional remedies can be life-changing for patients with chronic conditions,” says Dr Cường, “while the bitterness of the medicine may deter some, those who persevere often find their health transformed.”

Ultimately, the interplay between Eastern and Western medicine offers patients the best of both worlds. Whether it’s managing chronic illnesses, enhancing vitality, or preventing future health issues, traditional medicine remains a trusted resource for generations of Vietnamese patients. VNS