Fisherman revives fishing community

December 01, 2024 - 09:16
To preserve his village’s legacy, Huỳnh Văn Mười has documented the lifestyle of fishing communities through photographs and videos and assembled a collection of fishing tools, nets, and fragments of old boats for display in his home.

By Công Thành

Huỳnh Văn Mười bottles anchovy fish sauce at home in the fishing village of Mân Thái. He turned his house into a small museum of traditional fishery. Photo courtesy of Huỳnh Văn Mười

Born and raised in the ancient fishing village of Mân Thái on the beach of Sơn Trà Peninsula in the central city of Đà Nẵng, Huỳnh Văn Mười is keeping his family’s 10-generation fishing tradition alive by turning his home into a unique destination for cultural and fishery experiences.

Mười, one of the few remaining traditional fishermen in the area, continues to earn his livelihood from inshore fishing using a coracle, producing organic anchovy fish sauce, and curating a collection of fishing tools.

Over the past 30 years, he has amassed thousands of photographs documenting the fishing village’s activities and festivals, transforming his home into a small family museum for visitors and younger generations to explore.

The fishing village of Mân Thái, established in 1735, now retains only five per cent of its population in the fishing trade, with about 15 families still producing fish sauce in limited quantity.

A tourist and her son explore how fish sauce is made during a visit to Huỳnh Văn Mười's house in Mân Thái Ward in the tourism hub of Sơn Trà Peninsula. Photo courtesy of Huỳnh Văn Mười

“I produce about 400 litres of fish sauce annually, mainly for culinary enthusiasts,” Mười said. “Anchovy is the only material used for making Mắm Nhỉ, a premium fish sauce fermented for a year. We ferment anchovies with just salt in terracotta jars, and achieve the rich flavour that defines this traditional fish sauce.”

He explained that fish sauce production is still a main source of income for his family, allowing him to preserve the trade and culture of the fishing village amid rapid urbanisation in Đà Nẵng, a thriving tourism hub.

As Đà Nẵng's tourism sector boomed, many villagers shifted to more lucrative jobs in tourism services.

“Only a few middle-aged fishermen still head out daily for short fishing trips to provide food for their families,” Mười said. “Young people now have access to better education and prefer earning a living in tourism rather than fishery.”

Despite this trend, Mười continues his daily fishing trips using a small bamboo coracle, focusing on two main anchovy harvesting seasons in the lunar months of April and August.

“The best fish sauce is made using a 3:1 ratio of anchovies to salt, fermented for 12 months,” he explained. “The first drops are collected in terracotta or glass containers and exposed to sunlight for 20 days. These are then aged in jars for a year before use.”

In keeping with growing preferences for organic production and sustainability, Mười uses glass bottles to package his fish sauce, catering to consumers seeking healthier and eco-friendly options.

A school student practises making fish sauce as her teacher looks on. Mười’s house has become a popular destination for school students and tourists eager to learn about the history of Mân Thái Village. Photo courtesy of Huỳnh Văn Mười

A living museum

To preserve the village’s legacy, Mười has documented the lifestyle of fishing communities through photographs and videos and assembled a collection of fishing tools, nets, and fragments of old boats for display in his home.

“I want to tell visitors and young generations about the memories of the village and its ancient craft, which built a rich cultural heritage for Đà Nẵng,” Mười said. “This culture also supports eco-tourism and nature conservation efforts.”

Located along the beach road Võ Nguyên Giáp, Mười’s house has become a popular destination for school students, researchers, and tourists eager to learn about the history of Mân Thái.

Visitors have been captivated by Mười’s stories. Nguyễn Nhuận, a traveller from HCM City, was inspired to visit Đà Nẵng after watching Mười's video about fish sauce production on social media.

“His home feels like a small museum showcasing the fishing trade and tools of the past,” Nhuận said. “Every item tells a story of the hardships and resilience of the fishing community.”

Freelance writer Trần Thuỳ Dương shared her emotional experience visiting Mười’s home. “The savoury smell of fish sauce from terracotta jars was unforgettable. It was my first time witnessing the entire production process, and I even enjoyed a meal with freshly caught fish by the ocean,” she said.

School students join a practical session of fish sauce making in Mân Thái Village on the beach of Sơn Trà Peninsula. The fishing community has been preserved for eco-tour service plan. Photo courtesy of Huỳnh Văn Mười

Mười hopes to expand his home into an open-air museum showcasing ruined trawlers, bamboo boats, ceramic jars, oil lamps, fishing nets, and paddles.

“A few years ago, a sea village mural project brought life to the area, and I want to create an outdoor museum to tell the story of the fishing community,” Mười said.

“This will help both local residents and visitors appreciate the history and trade that laid the foundation for Đà Nẵng’s tourism industry.”

The Đà Nẵng city government is planning a community-based eco-tourism zone spanning the villages of Mân Thái, Phước Mỹ, and Thọ Quang. This initiative aims to preserve the culture of ancient fisheries while promoting homestay services.

Fisherman Huỳnh Văn Mười (left) guides a foreign tourist on how to make a fishing net at his home. He has collected hundreds of fishing tools to exhibit as a small museum of the fishing community. Photo courtesy of Huỳnh Văn Mười

The project is expected to add a new beach zone, complementing the success of Mỹ Khê Beach and further boosting Đà Nẵng’s reputation as a top coastal destination in the region.

With his efforts, Mười hopes to preserve not just the heritage of Mân Thái, but also the values that shaped the fishing village’s identity for centuries. VNS

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