Roasted pork, a must-try specialty in Đường Lâm Village.

Phương Dung

A tradition rooted in history

In the quiet village of Đường Lâm, near Hanoi, tradition lives on in every roasted pork roll. Villagers share a story passed down through generations—when King Ngô Quyền triumphed at the Battle of Bach Dang River in 938, he and his soldiers celebrated with roasted pork, cooked on a simple bamboo pole. That same dish, rich in history and flavour, has remained a proud specialty of Đường Lâm ever since.

For centuries, the villagers have perfected the art of roasting pork, infusing it with the fragrant essence of guava leaves, honey, and basil. The result is a delicacy with crispy golden skin, tender meat, and an aroma that lingers in the air, drawing visitors from afar. But more than just a meal, it is a taste of history—a symbol of a heritage passed down through generations.

Modernising tradition for food safety

Each day, the local roasting facility produces nearly half a tonne of roasted pork, serving around 1,000 diners. If food safety measures are consistently followed, 30,000 customers per month can savour a dish crafted with care and tradition. However, behind the inviting flavours lies a hidden risk. The safe food for growth (SAFEGRO) project team, dedicated to ensuring sustainable and safe food for all, understands that even the most cherished culinary traditions must meet modern safety standards.

While most of the village sleeps, in the early morning hours Dr. To Lien Thu and the SAFEGRO team are already at work. They stand alongside Mrs. Huong and her husband, Mr. Luong, the dedicated couple who prepare the roasted pork rolls. Observing, guiding, and supporting them, the team helps implement safer food handling practices to protect both tradition and the health of their customers.

Dr. Thu, who has dedicated almost 30 years to promoting food safety, advised the producers: “You must reorganise the warehouse, repair the meat processing area by re-paving the floor, and create a slope for proper drainage. A dedicated cabinet for tools and spices is needed to prevent cross-contamination. Workers should use clean towels and improve hygiene practices. More stainless steel sinks must be installed, and wooden meat cutting boards should be replaced along with stainless steel tables for better sanitation.”

For centuries, the villagers have perfected the art of roasting pork.

Previously, pork was prepared on wooden boards placed on a cement floor worn with cracks and peeling. These imperfections harbored bacteria, increasing the risk of cross-contamination. “Many bacteria such as E. coli, Salmonella, Listeria and Staphylococcus aureus can cause foodborne disease, leading to dizziness, vertigo, diarrhea, and vomiting, and even hospitalization” Dr. Thu explained.

Without proper changes, the reputation of a beloved tradition could be threatened by invisible dangers.

After working with SAFEGRO funded by Global Affairs Canada, the couple not only committed to improving food safety but also began upgrading their equipment and facilities. The floor has now been renovated, paved with shiny tiles and sloped for proper drainage—ensuring a cleaner and safer environment for food preparation.

From this secure space, roasted pork is distributed to weddings attended by hundreds and to famous restaurants in Duong Lam, where foreign guests often visit to experience local specialties. The improvements made are not just about compliance; they are about preserving a legacy.

By ensuring safe food production practices, SAFEGRO helps protect the tradition of Đường Lâm’s roasted pork. Generations to come will continue to earn their livelihoods from this craft, and tourists from all over the world can enjoy its rich flavors without worry. When tradition and food safety go hand in hand, the taste of history can endure forever.

Dr. Thu and the SAFEGRO team, working through the night together, appreciate that their efforts were making a real difference in the spirit of International Development Week (February 2–8, 2025) by “Building a Better World Together.” — VNS