Framing eyewear as art

January 05, 2025 - 08:17
A Hà Nội workshop offers glasses, each with a blend of artistry and a glimpse into the nation's cultural heritage.

By Quỳnh Anh*

Have you ever worn glasses with a frame made of wood, horn, bamboo, or lacquer? Step into a small workshop in Hà Nội where each pair combines craftsmanship with a touch of Vietnamese culture.

Shigeru Eyewear aims to produce standard glasses that are of high-quality and made with natural materials. — Photos courtesy of Shigeru Eyewear

Eyeglasses are as much a fashion accessory as they are a vital tool for better visibility. In this Hà Nội workshop, every pair offers a unique blend of artistry and a glimpse into the nation's cultural heritage.

The materials used include wood, bamboo, buffalo horn, and even lacquer.

After graduating in graphic design, Trần Xuân Hiến worked as an eyewear designer for a Japanese company, collaborating closely with craftsmen. However, after a factory fire forced the company to close, he returned to Hà Nội to continue his career.

Feeling disconnected from office-based design work, Hiến decided to try his hand at making eyewear himself. In 2017, he began crafting eyeglasses using wood and horn, later incorporating bamboo and lacquer.

“Bamboo has brought me much inspiration, but working with lacquer presented significant challenges,” Hiến said. He eventually combined bamboo and horn to create frames with both rough textures and delicate, shiny finishes.

“When I started making frames, I thought it was simple and didn’t allow for much creativity. But as I learned more, I realised there was a lot of room for innovation,” Hiến told Việt Nam News.

“I want to introduce Vietnamese materials and spirit in my designs.”

Growing up in Phú Xuyên craft village, surrounded by leather and wood craftsmanship, Hiến developed a deep passion for the trade. VNS Photo Quỳnh Anh

Making each pair of glasses follows a meticulous process, from design and material selection to measurements and handcrafting, all performed by Hiến himself.

He closely monitors product quality and continually seeks ways to overcome challenges when working with unique materials like bamboo.

“I discovered that bamboo absorbs water and sweat. Over time, the parts of the frames in contact with the wearer’s skin became blurred, which looked unattractive. I had to find ways to improve this,” Hiến said.

Working with horn requires around a month to complete a pair of glasses. However, crafting a frame from more complex materials like lacquer and mother-of-pearl must take one or two months.

At Shigeru, customers can have glasses custom-made to their exact measurements, ensuring a unique fit tailored specifically for them.

The materials also set Shigeru apart. Instead of relying on industrial plastics, the frames are crafted from natural, eco-friendly materials.

According to Hiến, the advantage of these materials lies in their rich, random natural patterns–something industrial colours cannot replicate. Moreover, their eco-friendly and recyclable properties reduce environmental impact, contributing to sustainability.

Trần Duy Anh, a student at the British University Vietnam, chose Shigeru eyewear for its blend of raw, natural materials that embody both simplicity and uniqueness.

“I ordered a pair of horn-framed glasses two weeks ago. Today, I came to collect them, and I’m very satisfied with its beauty. The frames feature springs on both sides to adjust the width for different face shapes. I’m delighted with this product,” Anh said.

“I’m not a pioneer, but I always respect sustainable fashion. I think Hiến and Shigeru are among the pioneers in Hà Nội in this field.”

With his experience, Hiến encourages workers to create both designs and products simultaneously for the most accurate results. VNS Photo Quỳnh Anh

Crafting handmade glasses frames requires not only skill, but also a keen eye for detail. Some frames take up to two weeks to complete and demand intense concentration.

Hiến is also looking for a partner who shares his passion and can help manage the business side of his company.

Trần Duy Hưng, one of the young artisans at Shigeru, has found beauty in this craft, pouring dedication into each frame he creates.

“I’m responsible for shaping and finishing the frames. Forming a frame is not easy—it has to be balanced and visually appealing,” Hưng said.

“My work requires meticulousness, creativity, and focus. I feel happy whenever I finish a product.”

Being made from natural materials, production demands high skill and experience from craftsmen. VNS Photo Lê Hương

A creation by Hiến combining horn and bamboo won second prize at Việt Nam Design Week in 2022. Today, he has developed around 40 different styles, making the most of these unconventional materials.

“The designs are what attract people the most. As a creative person, I aim to offer a fresher and more innovative take on eyewear compared to those made from traditional materials,” Hiến said.

Focusing on quality over quantity, Hiến has become a pioneer in multi-material handmade eyewear in Hà Nội, producing just 35 to 40 pairs each month.

His collection includes two lines: a popular range with designs appealing to a broad audience, and the signature line, featuring unique, brand-defining pieces priced between US$160 and $240 each.

Shigeru glasses have gained popularity among both domestic and international customers for their artistry, uniqueness, and timeless appeal. VNS

*With an additional interview by Lê Hương

With a spirit of dedication and meticulous attention to detail, Shigeru Eyewear crafts products of outstanding quality. VNS Photo Lê Hương

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