A “One-Degree” Approach to Kappo Cuisine

December 03, 2018 - 02:31
A “One-Degree” Approach to Kappo Cuisine

SINGAPORE - MediaOutReach  - December 3, 2018- The Lo & Behold Grouphas introduced its first ever Japanese restaurant concept in Singapore, ESORA. Housed within a heritageshophouse on 15 Mohamed Sultan Road, the 26-seater kappo-style establishment is the brainchild of Chef-Owner Shigeru Koizumi. He spearheads the restaurant's"one-degree" approach to kappocuisine, along with a unique tea pairing programme.




 

Similar to traditional kappo restaurants, a counter is all thatseparates guest from chef, allowing the servers and chefs to eagerly sharestories behind each dish or ingredient. Yet, ESORA eschews all the norms oftraditional Japanese fine dining.

 

Ushering in a fresh perspectiveon Japanese cuisine, every aspect of ESORA's dining experience is personallycurated by Koizumi himself, from the food down to the specially-sourced servewarefrom Japan. This "one-degree" approach to kappocuisine -- a term coined by Koizumi -- reflects the extreme level ofattention to detail adopted throughout ESORA, from kitchen to front-of-house.

 

A Chef of His Own Nature

 

Growing up in themountainside town of Nasu, Japan, Koizumi's respect for nature was inspired bythe grand landscape surrounding him. This affinity with nature nurtured anacute sensitivity to the integrity of ingredients and drives his passion forincorporating micro-seasonal ingredients at ESORA.

 

His experiences atTokyo's acclaimed three-Michelin starred Nihonryori RyuGin and Singapore'stwo-Michelin starred Odette have also lent him a proficiency in modern cookingtechniques. Koizumi merges his deep respect and knowledge of traditional Japanese cuisinetogether with techniques such as pacojets and liquid nitrogen to tease the best possible flavours out ofeach ingredient. The usage of modern techniques is applied in a way that tiesback to the Japanese culinary principle of maintaining the integrity of aningredient.

 

The "one-degree"philosophy shines through the most in his fanatical attention to detail when itcomes to food. Koizumi believes that every preparation of a dish with itstweaks and refining is a process, not an end; that even the slightest change ofjust one degree in temperature can affect the outcome of the dish. This is bestembodied in his approach to preparing his favourite dish -- dashi. Treating the dish with reverence, he takes pride in buildingthe savoury broth in layers with katsuobushi,kombu and a light dusting of yuzu zest, creating a perfect harmony offlavours.

 

Crafting a multi-coursemeal which will take diners through micro-seasonal ingredients that are given amodern Japanese take, each meal begins with a selection of snacks followed byKoizumi's signature dashi. Servednext is the amuse-bouche, where Koizumi offers his own modern interpretation onthe monaka, which is traditionallyserved as a sweet dessert. Using Maison Mitteault foie gras torchon, he createsintricate layers of flavours by adding myoga,Japanese mikan, roasted nuts andkaffir lime zest.

 

The rest of the meal isan orchestra of dishes reflecting Koizumi's passion for uncovering the best ofevery ingredient prepared with an extreme level of attention to detail. One ofthe main standouts is the Omi Wagyu, served with white maitake, amanaga pepperand aged akazu. It is perhaps the wagashi that Koizumi's playfulness comesthrough the most with nostalgic confections that are inspired by his favouritechildhood snacks.

 

The seven-course and nine-course menus are priced at $218++ and $278++ respectively.

 

A Dedicated Tea Pairing Programme

 
Koizumi's respect for nature extends further into his very own unique teapairing programme. One of the first of its kind in Singapore, the programme iscurated by Koizumi, who is a passionate tea connoisseur. Sourced directlythrough suppliers who have personal relationships with tea plantation farmersglobally, this non-commercial sourcing ensures an exceptional quality of teafrom farm to cup.

 

Behind each tea blend isan interesting story worth telling. Personally hand blended by Koizumi andcomplemented with each dish for a balance of precision and emotion, the teas areserved either cold or warm. Presented in modern glassware vessels, each pairingis accompanied by a bell jar of its raw tea blend for diners to immersethemselves in the aromas.

 

The first brew, the  effervescent Sparkling Oriental Beauty, isserved in a champagne flute showcasing Koizumi's take on the champagnecomponent of a usual alcoholic pairing. The delicate brew is infused withhibiscus petals to impart a deep rosy hue and a subtly floral acidity. Anothernotable blend is the marriage of Iribancha,Hojicha and a touch of cinnamon which creates an inimitable smoky blend.This particular brew pairs wonderfully with the unctuous Omi Wagyu.

 

Teapairings are priced at $38++ and $48++ for the seven-course and nine-coursemenus respectively. There are also sake or wine pairings priced at $88++ and $118++respectively.

 

The Space

 

The nature-forward spaceis reflective of the cuisine served at ESORA, and the chef-guest relationshipis always at the forefront. Natural Japanese materials such as timber, copper andmarble are used to create a space that is welcoming.

 

The main counter sitsbelow a skylight dressed in Japanese washipaper -- a feature that is a tribute to Koizumi's love for the sky. It is also areference to the restaurant's name, ESORA, which means 'painting in the sky'.

 

Opening Hours    

Tue -- Sat: 19:00 -- 21:00

Sun & Mon: Closed

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restaurant-esora.com

A

15 Mohamed Sultan Road,     Singapore 238964

E

enquiry@restaurant-esora.com

T

6365 1266

FB

esora.restaurant

IG

@esora.restaurant


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