The author's favourite pagoda in all of Việt Nam so far. Photos by Hedda Myklebust Ness

By Hedda Myklebust Ness

I had a wonderful long weekend in lovely Cao Bằng Province with two friends, venturing to discover the area's natural wonders and cultural charm.

We decided to get away from Hà Nội for the Hùng King holiday. So on Friday afternoon, we took the bus from the capital city and arrived in Cao Bằng seven hours later. We stayed at the Cao Bằng Ecohouse -- located in the middle of lively Cao Bằng City -- which offers food, drinks and motorcycle rental services, all in one!

The first thing we did was to set out with our freshly rented bikes and head for the mountains. After an hour of winding through unfamiliar roads and getting a little lost, we finally found our path and made our way toward the majestic Angel Eye Mountain. Our journey took us through the breathtaking Mã Phục Pass, offering a tantalising glimpse of the beauty that lay ahead. When we arrived in the vast fields surrounding Angel Eye Mountain, a profound sense of awe and tranquility washed over me. Towering limestone peaks stood silently in the distance, while buffaloes, horses and cows wandered freely across the open landscape, completing a scene that felt both wild and wonderfully serene.

Hedda Myklebust Ness (far right) with friends and puppies at LOGIN Food and Drinks.

After taking in the stunning views, we set off on bikes toward a nearby village in search of lunch. We found a charming little spot called LOGIN Food and Drinks, where we enjoyed a much-needed break and recharged after hours on the road - and were even greeted by a few playful puppies that made the stop even more heart-warming.

With spirits lifted, we continued on to explore the bustling local market in Trung Khanh, where I discovered the most vibrant and enticing selection of fruits I’d seen in weeks. As soon as the sun began to dip, we finally arrived at our home for the next two nights: Phong Nam Station, nestled deep in the heart of the serene Phong Nam Valley—a destination worth a visit entirely on its own. The quiet beauty of the valley was like a well-kept secret, a hidden paradise waiting patiently to be found.

The next day began early as we drove through the golden tobacco fields of the Dinh Phong area. The winding roads unfolded into sweeping vistas, and we paused at Sông Quây Sơn— a beautiful river where we found ourselves completely alone. Such a peaceful and beautiful spot it was.

Our next stop was the Nguom Ngao Cave, where we joined a guided tour along a newly opened route. For an hour and a half, we wandered through the colossal, two-kilometre-long cave, marvelling at the ancient stalactites and stalagmites sculpted over millions of years.

The sheer scale and natural artistry of the cave were awe-inspiring—it felt like we had stepped into an entirely different world, deep beneath the surface of our own.

After lunch at a local restaurant, we headed to the Ban Gioc Waterfalls, the main attraction of the province. Although it was the low season and the waterfall wasn’t at its fullest, it was still impressive to see, especially with the Chinese border so close by.

Just a minute away by scooter was the Phat Tich Truc Lam Ban Gioc Pagoda, which offered magnificent views of the valley. We ended the day with a satisfying dinner served by our hosts at Phong Nam, reflecting on the sights we’d seen during the day.

The beautiful and cloudy Cao Bằng.

On our last morning, we rose with the sun to visit Ngoc Con Valley and catch a glimpse from the viewpoint before getting back to Hà Nội. Though the weather kept us from hiking up to the top, the drive alone was enjoyable, and we even came across a hidden waterfall, which turned into a quiet exploration.

Our journey through Cao Bằng Province was more than just a scenic getaway—it was a retreat into nature, simplicity and stillness. Every stop offered a new perspective and a deeper appreciation for the authentic beauty of northern Việt Nam.

Each moment—whether spentbiking through quiet villages, sharing meals with kind locals, or simply standing still in awe of a view—felt like a gentle reminder to slow down and savour the present. As we made our way back to the bustling streets of Hà Nội, we carried with us not just memories but a renewed sense of calm and wonder that only a place like this could offer. VNS