Designer An Nam. – Photo courtesy of An Nam

An Nam, 29, is a rising star in the Vietnamese fashion industry. Nam, a graduate of Cần Thơ University, has a deep affinity for traditional materials and áo dài, which is evident in every collection he creates. To pursue his dream, Nam established his own brand, An Closet, under which numerous collections have been developed. Việt Nam News reporter Thu Ngân interviews Nam about his passion for fashion, áo dài, and the inspiration behind his collections.

Inner Sanctum: Why did you choose to pursue a career in the fashion industry and establish the An Closet brand after graduating as a construction engineer?

Fashion has not only been a childhood dream for me but also my chosen career path. Due to many challenges and difficulties, including family circumstances, I could not study the fashion industry. That’s why I chose to study construction engineering.

However, after a period, I found that I had never lost my passion for fashion and I could not live without fashion.

While working in various jobs in HCM City, I continued to nurture my love for fashion. A significant moment for me was in 2019 when I received the Best Dress Award for the best-dressed male guest at Aquafina Vietnam International Fashion Week, as voted by Harper's Bazaar Vietnam Magazine.

This event brought me in contact with industry icons like Trang Lê and Thiên Hương who encouraged me to further explore my fashion talents. This encounter motivated me to pursue fashion-related opportunities for both work and education.

In 2021, following the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, I embarked on creating An Closet. The pandemic served as a reminder of life's transience, prompting me to contemplate the legacy I wish to leave behind. An important question that lingered in my mind was whether, in the end, I would be remembered and if my life had carried true significance.

With the establishment of An Closet, my aspiration is to make a distinct impact by infusing a sense of nostalgia within a fashion context, reflecting my personal style and journey.

Inner Sanctum: An Closet draws inspiration from Vietnamese traditional cultural elements and materials. What is your special connection to traditional cultural features, and can you talk about your collections that prominently feature Vietnamese traditional cultural elements and materials?

I am a true nostalgic at heart. I consider myself fortunate to have been born in the mid-90s and experienced a wonderful childhood in the countryside. I have inherited valuable lessons from past generations while also embracing the advancements of modern civilisation. For me, fashion is a means to revive the positive aspects of the past and intertwine them with the fast-paced lifestyle of today. I harness memories from my upbringing to craft unique narratives and designs.

For instance, my Summer 2023 collection Đồng Dao draws inspiration from childhood nursery rhymes and the bountiful harvests of the countryside. The Tết 2023 collection Mình Ơi! is influenced by the traditional proverbs and folk songs that highlight marital virtues. Moreover, the Fall Winter 2023 collection Sơn Son Thếp Vàng and Miệt Mài pay homage to the exquisite beauty of Vietnamese lacquer art. Most recently, in April 2024, An Closet unveiled the Parfum du Sud spring/summer collection, celebrating the life and grace of Queen Nam Phương, known as "the last diamond of the Nguyễn dynasty".

I believe that the vast array of folk materials and elements within Vietnamese culture offer a treasure trove of inspiration for emerging designers. Constant learning and exploration are key prerequisites to channelling these rich cultural influences into creative endeavours.

A model at the show displaying 'Sơn Son Thiếp Vàng' collection of An Nam whose designs are inspired by Vietnamese traditional cultural elements and materials. – Photo courtesy of An Nam

Inner Sanctum: Many designers incorporate traditional cultural materials into their creations. How does An Closet differentiate itself from other brands in this aspect?

I am not overly concerned about conforming to conventional standards of differentiation. My approach centres on following my inner instincts and finding contentment in my pursuits.

The fundamental values that An Closet aims to embody are evocation and resonance. Our designs are crafted to evoke a sense of gentle familiarity within you.

This feeling may be reminiscent of the hues of a rural landscape, the quaint pathways of a village, or the wisps of blue smoke on a tranquil afternoon. It could evoke memories of your mother's elegant áo dài, your grandmother's timeless attire, or the delicate peach blossom motifs adorning your sister's traditional costume. It might also manifest subtly, like the strains of a folk melody or a soothing breeze carrying hints of grapefruit and areca blossom incense on a serene afternoon in the countryside.

These are the precious moments from the past that have left a lasting imprint on me.

Inner Sanctum: Could you share more about your áo dài collection and the steps you have taken to make áo dài a part of everyday wear?

Áo dài is always an important value that An Closet wants to aim for and preserve. That is the soul of the Vietnamese people, which helps us be easily recognised every time we appear in the national costume.

Áo dài holds a special significance as a cultural treasure that An Closet is dedicated to honoring and preserving. It serves as the symbolic soul of the Vietnamese people, offering a distinctive identity that instantly sets us apart whenever we don this traditional attire.

Each year, I make it a point to feature at least one collection that pays homage to áo dài, in addition to incorporating áo dài designs into other collections. For instance, Mùa An was unveiled during Tết (Lunar New Year) 2022, showcasing áo dài designs intertwined with the essence of traditional Tết games. The Mình Ơi! collection, launched for Tết 2023, drew inspiration from profound folk songs and proverbs that extol the virtues of marital harmony. The Tầm Xuân collection, introduced during Tết 2024, captures the opulence of a prominent southern family from the era of King Lê - Lord Trịnh.

While upholding the intrinsic characteristics of the Vietnamese áo dài, all designs incorporate innovative elements and enhancements, aiming to present styles that are both fresh and familiar, ushering in a new chapter in áo dài fashion. I envision a future where áo dài becomes a cherished everyday outfit, eliminating the need to reserve it solely for special occasions.

'Áo dài' holds a special significance as a cultural treasure that An Closet is dedicated to honouring and preserving. Photo courtesy of An Nam

Inner Sanctum: What are your future plans for developing the An Closet brand?

Starting out as a non-businessman, I am relatively new to this field. I lack extensive experience and structured plans for brand development. Nevertheless, I am dedicated to learning and enhancing my skills to better refine An Closet. Vietnamese cultural elements remain key to our brand's narratives and values that we aim to continue leveraging.

My aspiration is for An Closet to become a sought-after choice for Vietnamese inside the country due to its sense of familiarity. For overseas Vietnamese, An Closet can serve as a means to reconnect with cherished memories. It can be a symbol of remembrance and identity pride that we can carry with us. VNS